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Selgas
ParticipantFrom the pictures you have provided it looks like when the Filler tube is allowed to discharge water into the “flush passage” as you call it – it would be running directly into the toilet bowl itself and going to waste as the toilet bowl finds it own set level. I suspect from your description of the events that the blue filler valve needs replaceing and that should overcome the the problem.
Selgas
ParticipantIf you were registered gasfitter you would not be making such an idiotic statement – no one on this site will respond to your request as you have not provided anywhere near enough information to arrive at an answer – your questions are covered in the Standards that you will have if you are qualified in this feild.
Selgas
ParticipantI agree best that you hire the services of a qualified gas serviceperson to repair the water heater for you.
Selgas
Participant300mm lift of supply tank should be just fine – if water runs out the open vent then just increase the length of the pipe by adding some pipe to it simple a,b,c aye?
Selgas
ParticipantAlmost certainly air has gotten into the hot water system and what the tennants are experiencing is the air being displaced as it is being pushed out throught the open tap/faucet.
Selgas
ParticipantHave you checked the filter in the “blue” cylinder, it may have a split in it or be choked up with grit and muck, changing the filter to the correct micron rating may assist with your problem.
Selgas
ParticipantThank you for the update however the components for assisting Plumbers that you have identified have been with us for many years but I do agree they do assist us and make the task of finding some problems a little easier – but at a cost.
Selgas
ParticipantWhat thread sealing material are you using on the threads to make them watertight?
Selgas
ParticipantWhat’s this post all about I cannot follow it or the logic of the same – assist me please.
Selgas
ParticipantClearly what is happening here is that due to the extremely low water flow the heater is allowing a very small amount of gas to weep through part of the main burner but is insufficient to light up from the pilot burner. The result is an annoying smell, but I do not believe it is a dangerous situation if this is the case. Get the tapware that is causing the problem upgraded or replaced to avoid this fault developing into something worse.
The water heater relies upon water flow to lift the diaphram and open the gas valve proportionally if the water flow is too low then no gas will flow – they were never designed to operate on any water flow of less than 4 litres of pure hot water per minute flowing through it.
Selgas
ParticipantThe wire lead to and from the sparker I am referring to.
Selgas
ParticipantIs the “spark lighter” that lights the pilot burner tracking out on the metal front removable cover when you replace the panel if so this would explain your problem.
Selgas
ParticipantFrom your description of the fault and as I am not familiar with that particular water heater I can only go on my experience with appliances controlled by power packs using HS ignition units. Clearly if the main burner lights and stays alight allbeit for 3 seconds then the cause may well be low gas pressure especially if the water heater is supplied by Natural Gas and the gas meter is located outdoors in the freezing cold. In this instance the fault of low pressure is likely to be caused by the gas meter regulator being exposed to extreeme cold temps and the diaphram in the same will not activate properly. To rectify this problem you should contact your energy supplier to check their gas meter set ( GMS ).
Other than the above I could only add that if the problem does not turn out to be low pressure then the fault is likely to lay with the flame proving section of the electrical ciruit or possibly the control box for the same.
Selgas
ParticipantJust a thought – if you live in a hard water area then the knocking or banging sounds you hear when the water heater lights up could well be deposits of calcium or lime which have built up in the cylinder itself – depending on weather the cylinder is gas or electric powered it may or may not be able to have the build up removed.
Selgas
ParticipantTo “reset” one of these heaters you should press or slide the control valve to completely the OFF position and leave it for a few minutes, this allows the safety device to reset correctly. Then go through the relighting process as per the instruction plate, if after following the process correctly the pilot continues to go out when the slide or button is released there is a problem with the pilot and or safety device ( thermocouple ) at this point you should in the interests of safety contact a local service person to put the matter right.
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