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  • in reply to: Flame keeps going out #298467

    I have a Rinnai 24.
    I’ve replaced my gas bottles.
    The unit doesn’t seem to be able to sustain the flame for more than a minute.
    yes I have a mixer but I turn it into the full hot water position.
    To ignite it I lift the water lever just enough for the unit to start up. It seem to heat the water up for a while then the flame goes out again.
    I do this several times, then just when I think it can deliver more hot water, I increase the flow and the unit flames out again.
    There is a POT in the control unit that I adjusted. It seems to work before but now it doesn’t.
    Any help?



    Edwin

    in reply to: Wanted: Milwaukee “Adjusto” Faucet #301631

    Hello I suppose you no longer need the shower part, but I have the goose neck shower bar available. My manifold and cartiges are stripped, and I can’t find anything in the city. Suppose I’ll have to install something brand new – YUCK. Contact me in skype if you’d like this part.

    in reply to: WTB – Croxing Tool #301634

    hello
    Dorf Industries have one on the last two pages of an old cataloguge / plumbing manual pages 237 and 238.
    The cat No is 16041 tube sizes 1/2″ – 3/4″
    Cat No 16045 Ball Replacement, sizes 1/2″ – 3/4″.
    I doubt if these numbers are still in use, however there is a good description of the tool and how it workd.

    in reply to: What brand of Pex do you use? #301693

    I’m in central Texas and we’ve had serious problems with copper pitting and deteriorating due to water quality. Well water mainly but slab leaks in the citys of Austin and San Antonio are very common. I sleep better with the Rehau. Pressed brass fittings are very expensive but sturdy. Relying on crimp rings or o-rings like Kitek or Trac. reminds me of polybutylene.
    I still use copper about half the time but never again in a slab.

    in reply to: What brand of Pex do you use? #301692

    I also use copper pipe. No matter what the new age of piping brings….all you have to do is follow the history of plastic piping and it’s failures, it’s lawsuits, and it’s reliability problems as it ages. Sorry I’m not hopping on any bandwagon because it’s fast and easy to install. I save that for those who don’t care about their customer base and live for the moment in these times. Tooodle-Dee

    Toodle-Doo

    in reply to: Working At the Plbg. Trade #301687

    It is a wonderful thing to give back the knowledge you have aquired over 55 years of service. Yes Art Iwish you could work in compastity in the field. your skills are invaluable!
    Sincerly
    Ken Boemer

    there are two types of groovers. one that simply grooves the pipe the other type extrudes the pipe making the end of the pipe larger. the extuder type has a hydraulic pump and gauge on it and you pump it by hand as the pipe turns on the groover

    in reply to: searching for my long lost cable #301642

    Sounds like General’s Flexi-core. http://www.drainbrain.com/

    in reply to: Hardware #301659

    try sheilds plumbing supply in port washington ny 516-767-0300 ask for jp, tell him dino sent you. che collects old crapper covers, must have 500 all styles and colors, he will also buy used ones if anyone has em

    i think he gets $50-75 each plus shipping

    dino

    in reply to: REPLACE HOT WATER HEATER #293290

    Call a Licensed professional, It is illegal to do this kind of work yourself where we live. Do not go the cheap rout to save a buck, you may risk the lives of your tenants.

    in reply to: underground water leak? #293118

    you need to make sure your main valve is working. food coloring in the toilet tank will tell you if the flappers are seeping by. there is good equipment out there to locate this leak but it is expensive equipment. check your local plumbers to see if they have this equipment. also get a 3′ probe and probe along the water line and see if you come up with a wet probe somewhere. Hope this helps.



    PRO/2002

    in reply to: Water Pressure Decreased #293123

    there are a few things that can be looked at.
    1-check for a leak (underground?)
    2-check pressure in the tank
    3-check the adjustment on the pressure switch
    4- do you have a filter that may need changed
    5-do you have a water softner that you can put on bypass to see if that helps.
    6-do you have a bad main shut off valve that is restricting the flo of water?
    7-check the pressure guage and see what the pump kicks on at and kicks off at.
    Hope this helps 30 on 50 off is good but 40 on 60 off is better make sure you have 2 lbs less air pressure in the Bladder tank than the cut in on the pressure switch.



    PRO/2002

    in reply to: Toilets emit sewer gas smell when flushed #301468

    You should put a smoke test on the DWV system of this house. It will tell all



    PRO/2002

    in reply to: wet venting #301463

    908.1 Wet Venting Is Limited To Vertical Drainage Piping Receiving The
    Discharge From The Trap Arm Of One (1) And Two (2) Fixture Unit
    Fixtures That Also Serves As A Vent For Not To Exceed Four (4) Fixtures.
    All Wet Vented Fixtures Shall Be Within The Same Story; Provided,
    Further, That Fixtures With A Continuous Vent Discharging Into A Wet
    Vent Shall Be Within The Same Story As The Wet Vented Fixtures.
    No Wet Vent Shall Exceed Six (6.0) Feet In Developed Length.



    PRO/2002

    in reply to: toilet lifespan #293041

    Toilets have an average life span of twenty years, Then the rim jets fill with calcium and iron deposits, and then cause a sluggish flush. It all depends on your water quality.

Viewing 15 posts - 1 through 15 (of 1,939 total)

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