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Either the lower element is the problem and you changed the upper one needlessly, or you have the non-adjustable upper thermostat and that needs to be replaced with an adjustable version.: : My Reliance manufactured water heater has the same type problems the others stated. The heater is 11 years old, 40 gal., has two elements – 4500 watts each. I have the temperature set at about 110-115. The breaker on the upper thermostat would kick, Id reset it, water would get very hot, work for a few days, then kick…etc. I replaced the upper thremostat, everything was fine for about four months. Now it kicks every other dayor more often. What causes this? How do I trouble shoot the problem? What are the best options for correcting this with a long term solution? Thanks.
: When we turn on the valve for the tub or shower we get no hot water. It is only in the one tub. All the other fixtures are fine. Any input?Bob, It could be several things. First of all I assume this is a single control faucet? It may be an obstruction In the hot water supply to the faucet or if it is a pressure balanced faucet It could be a balancing spool. With a little more info on you faucet (brand name and or model)and how the problem started (all of a sudden or over a period of time)I;m sure someone here can help. Good Luck. Scott
Bob, There are many ways to skin a cat. The system he has recommended is used in Europe. Smaller bore piping is used which reduces dead leg water, Yes there are for and against for every system. Have you considered the extra heater cost and standby losses? Can you ask him for names of people who have it installed and ask their opinion? The final choice is yours and you need to satisfy yourself that you have the right system. If it wasnt for adventurous people we wouldnt have phones or electricity. Grahame
A new handle, or less likely, a new stem.: The hot water knob on my kitchen sink wont shut off. It just spins around while the water runs. What do I need to do to fix this?
Get your helper to drill out as much of the lead and oakum as possible with a 3/8 drill and a 1/4 steel drill bit. Then when your helper has drilled out as much of the lead and oakum as he can, get him to use a lead pick or straight screwdriver to remove the rest of the lead and oakum. Then the joint should come apart easily. Oh yeah go for coffe while helper is doing this…………easiest way I know of……Lou
It is easy enough to do it the way you describe, IF you want raw sewage in the yard. If would probably make for a very green lawn, but the smell ight be less than desirable. You need two things, a company in Chicago used to assemble them into a single, very effective unit. You need a check valve in the line to prevent the sewer from backing into the house line automatically, and then, since you will want to use the house facilities and check vlves are never totally effective, you need an ejector pump connected to the sewer system so that it will only operate when the sewer is full, and the pumped outlet must be connected back to the sewer at a point past the check valve.: I live in a home that is approximatley 50 years old. Whenever ther is a large ammount of rain, the sewage system backs up into my basement. The previous owner installed a sewage shut off valve. This is somewhat nice, except you must be home and know when you basement is taking on water then manually close the valve. I have been told that all I need to do is install a sewage ejector pump, and pump any sewage that backs up into my basement out my front yard. Is this a proper use for a sewage pump? If so, how do I know what size pump to purchase? This seems like an easy enough job to perform myself (almost too easy), however to be on the safe side can anyone supply me with instructions on doing this? Thank you. : Bob
It is easy enough to do it the way you describe, IF you want raw sewage in the yard. If would probably make for a very green lawn, but the smell ight be less than desirable. You need two things, a company in Chicago used to assemble them into a single, very effective unit. You need a check valve in the line to prevent the sewer from backing into the house line automatically, and then, since you will want to use the house facilities and check vlves are never totally effective, you need an ejector pump connected to the sewer system so that it will only operate when the sewer is full, and the pumped outlet must be connected back to the sewer at a point past the check valve.: I live in a home that is approximatley 50 years old. Whenever ther is a large ammount of rain, the sewage system backs up into my basement. The previous owner installed a sewage shut off valve. This is somewhat nice, except you must be home and know when you basement is taking on water then manually close the valve. I have been told that all I need to do is install a sewage ejector pump, and pump any sewage that backs up into my basement out my front yard. Is this a proper use for a sewage pump? If so, how do I know what size pump to purchase? This seems like an easy enough job to perform myself (almost too easy), however to be on the safe side can anyone supply me with instructions on doing this? Thank you. : Bob
: A client has raised a concern about sewer gas from a combination storm/sewer backing up to the roof drains. The issue is that the roof : drain is near an air intake for the main air handler. There has been a suggestion to wet trap the drains. Is this simply p-trapping?You have sewer and stormwater (roofdrains) running into the same pipe ??. This is incorrect the swewer and stormwater are supposed to be completly different systems, with NO stormwater going into the sewer. This causes the treatment plants to have a heart attack during rain and they are not able to handle the load. Do not wet trap the vent. the vent is used to remove gases from the sewer and to let air pressure out when water runs done the sewer. traping it is the same as the trap in a sink or wc, it will not let the air out. if your customer is concernd about sewer gas into air intake, move the vent around away from it. you need about 6m from the vent to air intakeDISCLAIMERAll advice is given with-out seeing the job, and hence all advice MUST be taken as advice with limited knowledge on the exact situation. NO responsibility can or will be taken. And yes, I am a licensed plumber with my own business in Brisbane Australia
: : A client has raised a concern about sewer gas from a combination storm/sewer backing up to the roof drains. The issue is that the roof : : drain is near an air intake for the main air handler. There has been a suggestion to wet trap the drains. Is this simply p-trapping?: You have sewer and stormwater (roofdrains) running into the same pipe ??. This is incorrect the swewer and stormwater are supposed to be completly different systems, with NO stormwater going into the sewer. This causes the treatment plants to have a heart attack during rain and they are not able to handle the load. : Do not wet trap the vent. the vent is used to remove gases from the sewer and to let air pressure out when water runs done the sewer. traping it is the same as the trap in a sink or wc, it will not let the air out. if your customer is concernd about sewer gas into air intake, move the vent around away from it. you need about 6m from the vent to air intake: : DISCLAIMER: All advice is given with-out seeing the job, and hence all advice MUST be taken as advice with limited knowledge on the exact situation. NO responsibility can or will be taken. And yes, I am a licensed plumber with my own business in Brisbane AustraliaSorry, perhaps I was not clear. The city is still running a combined storm and sanitary at the street. They are in the process of splitting them apart, however there are still some lines from the sanitary connected to the storm. These lines are only broken off when a major renovation is happening. So, while I am running storm separate from the sewer, there may still be gases in the storm line. I would not vent the trap, because of the obvious reasons. However, if I were to trap the roofdrain, it most certainly will clog from all the roof debris in the base of the trap.
That would require about 380 psi at the pump. There is no 120v. pump which could develop that pressure and also deliver an acceptable volume of water.: I am looking for a 120 VAC water pump jack that can pump water from an 840 foot deep well.
No, They are anchored to a flange which should be resting on the floor. When you tighten the bolts, you are either pushing the floor down, or raising the pipe up. Take the toilet up, and put screws through the flange to secure it to the floor, and then reset the bowl.: How are the bolts that hold the toilet to the floor usually installed? My toilet was coming loose, so I tightened the nuts. Only a few days later it started coming loose again. Is it possible that the bolts are anchored in the floor boards and Im pulling them out little by little? If I am pulling the bolts out, what can I do to prevent further damage and fix this for good?
: I am installing a front-loading washer (Frigidaire) with a stacked dryer in a first floor bathroom. Is it advisable to place it on a tray in case of leaks, or is this an unnecessary precaution? (The basement underneath is unfinished). If so, what type of trays are available and for what price?Bob: you would be better off to install a floor drain in front of the washer if feasible..
: I am installing a front-loading washer (Frigidaire) with a stacked dryer in a first floor bathroom. Is it advisable to place it on a tray in case of leaks, or is this an unnecessary precaution? (The basement underneath is unfinished). If so, what type of trays are available and for what price?Yes a tray is a good idea on the second floor,but you will need to drain it. It isnt any good with out a drain . Good luck
: I recently bought a hot water heater and had it installed. It arrived with a dent on the top rim and also near the bottom. The plumber assured me that it would work OK, and gave me a $25 discount, so I had it installed.: Did I make a mistake? Is it likely that the interior workings are damaged?If it is not leaking now then you are probably OK. I would assume that the damage is cosmetic (only the skin was damaged). You would know if you had a leak.Jim
: I recently bought a hot water heater and had it installed. It arrived with a dent on the top rim and also near the bottom. The plumber assured me that it would work OK, and gave me a $25 discount, so I had it installed.: Did I make a mistake? Is it likely that the interior workings are damaged?No mistake there if the heater isnt leaking sound like you may have saved a buck.
