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One way to over come this is to install a pressure tank
and check valve. The tank will give you the flow and the check valve will keep the flow going only into the tank or house. The in-coming flow will feed your tank and house as the water is used, so the tank should last for a long time before you see a loss of pressure. I have had good results with this set up. One last thing to check is for clogged aerators at the sinks and showerheads. Good luck.
I think it’s useful to you “Shut off supply valve and unscrew (remove) the drain valve completely. Have a large bucket or other way of catching the water and junk that will flow. This method is ideal if your heater is located in an area where the resulting flow of water won’t do any damage. One work of caution; some of those cheap plastic valves will break if not careful.” You can get all the information about plumbing here
DUNBAR 2007-12-21 16:02:34
Pyrox PC20E for fan coils can possibly increase your system’s SEER rating up to 2 full points—a boost that will reduce your energy consumption and ultimately save you money.
I think you might have TWO valves – one to control the water and the other the heating.
In the H/W only setting, power goes via the tank stat Common/Terminal 1, to the H/W valve on the brown input which then operates it (and I think shoves power out to the boiler on Orange). Grey is I think L and Blue is N.
With HEATING on, power will go via the room stat to the HEATING valve in exactly the same manner. The (Orange?) outputs to the boiler from the two valves are commoned together.
Thanks Retired your advice is so useful for me, I’ll realy try it and hope that it’s working to remove my broken PVC?