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well if anything you were thinking of each part and what it does in the system. thanks for the challange.
Ok For a quick way to approximate pressure tank volume feel for temperature differance on the side of the tank between top to bottom. Did you check the 1/4 inch pipe for blockage after the tee to the pressure switch? You haven’t mentioned if you have a check valve that you can see in your system. A bad check valve can give you erratic an unpridictable symtomes. Check these items for your overall problem. I’ll be waiting to see your response. On your next reply please give me a fitting by fitting descripton of your well piping for a better idea of what i’m not looking at. E.G. pipe from well casingto 90 to 6inch nipple1-1/4″ to tee for pressure switch &gauge to check valve to to iso valve to expansion tank to house. The more descriptive the more easy to diagnose. another thing that bothers me is you mentioned auto and manual. Are these on a seperate control box. If so check the mag contack points in the box. Heavey cycling can burn up even low amperage points
» This message has been edited by rooster on 31 January 2003
First things first install a laing autocirc recirculating pump in the up stairs bathroom under the lav sink in the cabnite. If you dont have a plugin under the cabnite you will need a sparky. The pump will maintaine a 98deg temp. second if local code permits i would install a small expansion tank along booster pump fed through a check valve and if not equiped with internal pressure switch than install a seperate one Don’t forget a safty pressure relief valve vented to your drain system. Strongly recommend this all be professonially installed.
Secure some studer vents on all of your vent stacks in a temporay manor for a few days to see if the wind is affecting you vents. Could be improper venting.
In reply to part #2 pull of your supply line flush it and check for obstructons. I usualy use a bucket under the sink with the supply line still hooked to the shut off valve. Then I back flush through the faucet into the bucket as well. Check for flow if its good hook it back up. Don’t forget to clean your areator screen.
First of all i would pipe inlet to the pressure switch and check for blockage on the switch and it’s supplying pipe. Some times the diaphram in the switch rips rendering the switch useless or unrliablt. Pressure switches are cheap or atleast the square D 30-50psi with manual on off switch bar are cheap 12.50 to 35.00. Next if it is a newer diphram tank it is supose to have pressure even when empty. If the switch don’t fix you I would contact a local plumber experianced in wells or an irragation supplier. all so determine what is the top pressure you would like to run your system (don’t exceed 60) and set your switch &tank air pressure according whomever helps you’s instructions.
Bad idea to make your own there is a lot of engineering and testing that goes in to building a pressure vessel for safty and reliability. If your boat has a 110v power sorce (IE)generator or inverter through the battery I’v heard of rver’s using insinkerator instahots to replace or remodle install for a hot water source.
Need more info but i would check for power after after the mag contacts or preasure switch contacts. If there is power all the way to the motor and still no workey better call a sparky to check the pump moter or the capacitors.
I installed one for a friend in his guest bathroom and say he used it acouple of times just for the hell of it. there quite the conversation piece. [img]null[/img]
Check for molding flaws in the toilet. Dark food coloring will aid in finding hairline cracks or flawed seams. You will plobably need to remove the toilet from the flange and also check underneath. I have run in to simaler situations.