- This topic has 6 replies, 4 voices, and was last updated 18 years, 7 months ago by rooster.
30 Jan 2003 at 2:52 am #276306captaintodd77
110ft 4″ submersible pump with 20gal pressure tank.. here’s the problems, all happened at once.
1)water pressure cycles rapidly several times then cuts out for a few minutes and starts all over again. I turned pump off, opened a faucet to drain tank and check pressure. its at 35psi.
turned pump back on it starts cycling but pressure remains steady at 35psi. Turn pump off
and open faucet to check for water.. soon as pump turned off water flow stops, but pressure reads 35psi. Its as if the tank keeps its pressure but doesn’t fill with water.
2)While trying to figure out problem number one I encountered this.. When pump kicks off the water pressure gauge falls to zero and the pump does not immediately kick on.. If I manually close the switch to turn the pump on the pressure rises rapidly to 90psi and doesn’t kick off when it should have. I opened all faucets and let it run just to see what it would do.. with everything opened it maintained about 60psi for several minutes (pressure tank read 35psi)before the pump turned off. At this point I closed all faucets and checked the pressure tank at 35psi. Turn pump power off, open faucet and I get no water from the tank.. shouldn’t it vent the pressure out the open faucet or at least some pressure?
Are both switch and Wel-x-Trol model 202 bad? Could one failure have led to the other?
please help, my wife needs a shower!
30 Jan 2003 at 7:34 am #293871roosterParticipant
First of all i would pipe inlet to the pressure switch and check for blockage on the switch and it’s supplying pipe. Some times the diaphram in the switch rips rendering the switch useless or unrliablt. Pressure switches are cheap or atleast the square D 30-50psi with manual on off switch bar are cheap 12.50 to 35.00. Next if it is a newer diphram tank it is supose to have pressure even when empty. If the switch don’t fix you I would contact a local plumber experianced in wells or an irragation supplier. all so determine what is the top pressure you would like to run your system (don’t exceed 60) and set your switch &tank air pressure according whomever helps you’s instructions.
31 Jan 2003 at 1:19 am #firstname.lastname@example.orgParticipant
I installed new switch today.. more confused than ever. The switch has yet to turn on the pump in auto mode. If I manually operate the switch with ALL faucets in the house wide open the pressure builds rapidly and I have running water for 10 seconds at which time the pump kicks off at about 60psi. As the pump stops the water stops running and the line pressure drops to zero and the pump doesn’t kick back on at all.
I am also certain that the pressure tank is remaining totally empty.. it sure sounds empty when tapped with a wrench.
dead pressure tank I can deal with but why wouldn’t the new switch cycle on/off rapidly trying to maintain water pressure.
to throw a curve ball into the whole thing.. If I close the main isolation to the house and open the valve on the T fitting (by the switch) I can manually start the pump and it will flow water forever until I start to close the valve at which time the switch shuts off the pump. If I then re-open the vavle the pump doesn’t come on and I get no water. Seems to me several of my symtems conctradict eachother.
I’d call my well installer but he’s out of town for a few more days.
31 Jan 2003 at 6:33 am #293873Robert Stephen MortonParticipant
jeepgoforlow. you stated that you installed a new switch. did you, or do you know how to set the upper & lower pressure switch settings?
31 Jan 2003 at 6:47 am #293874roosterParticipant
Ok For a quick way to approximate pressure tank volume feel for temperature differance on the side of the tank between top to bottom. Did you check the 1/4 inch pipe for blockage after the tee to the pressure switch? You haven’t mentioned if you have a check valve that you can see in your system. A bad check valve can give you erratic an unpridictable symtomes. Check these items for your overall problem. I’ll be waiting to see your response. On your next reply please give me a fitting by fitting descripton of your well piping for a better idea of what i’m not looking at. E.G. pipe from well casingto 90 to 6inch nipple1-1/4″ to tee for pressure switch &gauge to check valve to to iso valve to expansion tank to house. The more descriptive the more easy to diagnose. another thing that bothers me is you mentioned auto and manual. Are these on a seperate control box. If so check the mag contack points in the box. Heavey cycling can burn up even low amperage points
» This message has been edited by rooster on 31 January 2003
1 Feb 2003 at 5:07 am #email@example.comParticipant
I went on a shopping spree at Lowes today and bought everything that goes from the ground line to the house connection. Did I mention this is for a mobile home in Michigan.. its quite cold under there! I knew that the pressure tank was bad beforehand but I also found a faulty main isolation gate valve. Cranking the handle would only open it 1/4 of the way. After spending some quality time under my home I now have a fully functional water system once again. The pump kicks on at 32psi and off at 55 with a tank pressure of 30.
Many thanks for all the help!
1 Feb 2003 at 8:49 am #293876roosterParticipant
well if anything you were thinking of each part and what it does in the system. thanks for the challange.
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