water heater

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    • #279981
      MasterPlumbers
      Keymaster

      HI, I AM HAVING TROUBLE WITH MY WATER HEATER,
      IT STARTS WITH HOT WATER AND IN THE MIDDLE OF THE
      SHOWER THE WATER SUDDENLY TURNS FREEZING COLD,
      WHAT DO YOU SUGGEST FOR THIS TYPE OF PROBLEM, DO
      YOU THINK IT CAN BE REPAIRED OR DO YOU THINK I
      HAVE TO BUY A NEW ONE. PLEASE LET ME KNOW AS SOON
      AS POSSIBLENY ADVISE WILL BE APPRECIATED,
      THANK YOU, OLGA GIRALDEZ
      olga@netpoint.net

    • #302047
      Guest

      OLGA, I TOO HAVE EXPERIENCED THE SAME PROBLEM THAT YOU ARE HAVING
      SUGGESTION: FIRST OF ALL I WOULD CAUTION YOU NOT TO TRY DOING THE FOLLOWING
      ITEMS YOURSELF. NATURALLY THE BEST ADVICE WOULD BE TO OBTAIN THE SERVICES OF
      A LICENSED PLUMBER. 2ND, YOU MIGHT SEEK THE ADVICE OF A “JACK OF ALL TRADES–TYPE
      OFHANDYMAN”. IF YOUR WATER HEATER IS OVER, LET’S SAY, 5 YEARS OLD, THERE IS A POSSIBILITY
      THAT YOU HAVE A TREMENDOUS AMOUNT OF LIME BUILD-UP ON THE HEATING
      ELEMENTS (MOST WATER HEATERS HAVE 2 “ELEMENTS”. I SUPPOSE THAT SOME
      ONLY HAVE ONE. ANYHOW, ONCE YOU GET A TREMENDOUS AMOUNT OF LIME
      BUILD-UP ON THE HEATING ELEMENT(S), THE EFFICIENCY OF THE ELEMENT(S)
      IS/ARE GREATLY REDUCED.
      HEATING ELEMENTS ARE RELATIVELY INEXPENSIVE WHEN COMPARED TO THE COST
      OF A NEW HOT WATER HEATER (COUPLED WITH THE INSTALLATION COSTS)…DEPENDING
      ON WHAT AREA OF THE COUNTRY YOU LIVE—-THAT COULD COST YOU BETWEEN $350 TO
      $500 TO REPLACE.
      HOWEVER, MOST HEATING ELEMENTS COST ANYWHERE BETWEEN $8.00 AND $20.00, SO
      EVEN IF YOU NEEDED 2 OF THEM THE MAXIMUM COST SHOULD NOT BE OVER $40.00.
      INSTALLING THEM IS A VERY SIMPLE AND VERY EASY PROCEDURE AND ANY HANDYMAN
      SHOULD NOT CHARGE OVER $10 TO $15 TO $20 (FOR THE TOTAL JOB)–WHICH WOULD
      MAKE YOUR TOTAL OUTLAY PERHAPS BETWEEN $30 TO $60 FOR BOTH MATERIALS AND
      LABOR. AGAIN, EVEN THOUGH THIS IS A VERY SAFE AND VERY EASY “JOB TO DO”,
      I CAUTION YOU …….A G A I N…..NOT TO TRY DOING IT YOURSELF. YOU ARE
      DEALING WITH HIGH VOLTAGE ELECTRICTY, PLUS HOT WATER, PLUS A LOT OF BUILT
      UP TANK PRESSURE WHICH COULD CAUSE EXTREME BODILY HARM. NOW AS DANGEROUS
      AS THAT SOUNDS, IT IS STILL A VERY EASY AND SIMPLE JOB TO PERFORM.
      ANOTHER SUGGESTION::: HOT WATER HEATING ELEMENTS HAVE ADJUSTING SCREWS ON
      THEM. NORMALLY THEY ARE ADJUSTED AT A “SAFE” LEVEL WHICH INSURES THAT
      YOUR WATER WILL GET HOT—BUT NOT HOT ENOUGH TO EXPLODE YOUR TANK. (PS:
      AS FAR AS “EXPLOSION” IS CONCERNED, DON’T LET THAT ALARM YOU TOO MUCH….
      SIMPLY BECAUSE ALL WATER HEATERS SHOULD HAVE A RELEASE VALVE ON THEM THAT
      WILL ALLOW THE EXTREME BUILDUP OF PRESSURE (SHOULD THAT HAPPEN) TO EXCAPE.
      BASICALLY IT IS A VALVE THAT IS WATER TIGHT AND DOESN’T ALLOW ANY LEAKING
      OF WATER OUT OF THE TANK. HOWEVER, IF YOU GET A TREMENDOUS AMOUNT OF
      HEAT (VISA VISA “EXTREMELY HOT WATER”) THEN THAT VALVE WILL REACT TO THE
      HEAT AND OPEN UP, THUS LETTING THE EXCESS WATER DRAIN OUT OF THE TANK.
      YOU SHOULD HAVE A METAL WATER PIPE THAT IS ON THE OUTSIDE OF YOUR TANK
      WHICH RUNS DOWN TO THE FLOOR….THIS IS THE PIPE THROUGH WHICH THE EXCESS
      WATER WOULD EXIT YOUR TANK.
      OK…BACK TO THE “ADJUSTING” THAT YOU CAN DO ON THE HEATING ELEMENT. THEY
      USUALLY HAVE A SMALL ADJUSTMENT “ARROW/SLOT OR WHATEVER” THAT CAN BE TURNED
      …NORMALLY CLOCKWISE…TO INCREASE THE HEAT PUT OUT BY YOUR ELEMENT. HAVE
      SOMEONE — WHO KNOWS WHAT THEY ARE DOING–TO TURN THIS LITTLE ADJUSTMENT
      SCREW/ARROW/SLOT…TO THE RIGHT…PERHAPS 1/8TH OF A TURN. IF THAT DOESN’T
      HELP THEN PERHAPS THEY MAY TRY 1/7TH OR 1/6TH OF A TURN.
      THIS PROCEDURE ONLY TAKES A COUPLE SECONDS TO DO, EXTREMELY SIMPLE…””DON’T
      DO IT YOURSELF!!!”
      BY THE WAY—WHERE ARE THESE SO-CALLED HEATING ELEMENTS??” VERY SIMPLE, YOU
      WILL SEE A SMALL METAL PLATE ON THE SIDE OF YOUR HOT WATER HEATER WHICH IS
      PERHAPS 6 INCHES WIDE AND 12 INCHES HIGH (THE SIZE COULD EASILY VARY), WITH A
      SIMPLE SCREW AT THE TOP AND ONE AT THE BOTTOM. IF YOU HAVE ONE HEATING ELEMENT
      THERE MAY ONLY BE ONE COVER PLATE. IF YOU HAVE 2 HEATING ELEMENTS THEN YOU
      WOULD PROBABLY HAVE ONE OF THESE REMOVABLE PLATES AT THE TOP AND ALSO ONE AT
      THE BOTTOM. WHEN THE 2 SCREWS, HOLD THEM IN PLACE, ARE REMOVED, THE ELEMENTS
      WILL BE…..RIGHT THERE IN FRONT OF YOU.
      TRY (NOT YOU–SOMEONE ELSE) THE ABOVE AND LET ME KNOW IF EITHER THE ADJUSTMENT
      (ONLY) WORKED, AND IF NOT, WHETHER OR NOT YOU HAD A NEW ELEMENT(S) INSTALLED.
      GOOD LUCK ! texas desame@concentric.net

    • #302048
      Guest

      Our water heater is starting to whistle loudly at times
      like a foghorn. Can anyone suggest what might be
      happening and is it something I should worry about?

      Trish

    • #302050
      Guest

      My wife and I noticed that our water heater had been leaking. It wasn’t profuse, but it has us concerned. What should we do? Thanks.

      Mitch

    • #302051
      Guest
      Mitch Johnson wrote:
      My wife and I noticed that our water heater had been leaking. It wasn’t profuse, but it has us concerned. What should we do? Thanks.

      Mitch

      I would check the recovery tank i belive its called
      that is the tank that holds and heats your water.
      Is it a gas or electric water heater?

      Is it old, is the tank leaking or is it the pipes
      going into it. Thats what I would check.

      Now for my question:
      I have a Bradfod-white old gas water heater that
      doesn’t seem to keep the water hot enough.
      The pilot is lit, but it doesn’t go into a big flame
      except when I turn it down, then when it cools
      off, I can turn the thermostat back to HOT all
      the way and a big flame comes out to heat the tank.

      Could this be the thermocoupler ??
      I bought a new line (thermocoupler) but
      not sure how to disconnect the pilot part of the
      line.

      Greg Borden
      gborden@ix.netcom.com
      Philadelphia PA
      8/18/97

    • #302049
      Guest
      Trish Harich wrote:
      Our water heater is starting to whistle loudly at times
      like a foghorn. Can anyone suggest what might be
      happening and is it something I should worry about?

      There is a web site being developed(by me) where you can find answers to these
      kinds of questions. This problem could be caused by a faulty temperature&pressure
      relief valve. If it is you would notice some leakage. It could also be a heating element
      that is caked with lime deposits. In that case the noise would only be present during
      the heating cycle. If it only happens while running hot water it could be as simple as a water
      valve not being open far enough. For other home repair advice try http://www.fromalldirections.com/wil-dew
      (soon to be simply handyman.net)

      Dale
      wil-dew@albany.net

      The Wil-Dew House

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