New Sewer Line

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    • #279848
      Ruby Le Ngoc

      I need to convert from my current septic system to the town sewer system. There is a spur from the sewer already on my property. In my area the excavator that I hire is also the one who typically makes the connections both to the sewer main and to the house drain. Currently, the septic runs out of a rear corner of my house and the sewer is located near the opposite front corner of the house. I will need to run all new drain lines in the house to get the drain to the front corner. I plan on using ABS for the new main drain lines.   What diameter pipe should I use? I have one full bath near a rear corner, the pipe would run a few feet toward the corner, make a 90 degree turn along the side wall, run 25 feet, make another 90 degree turn to run along the front wall, then a half bath and the kitchen would enter the drain, then the pipe would run another 45 feet before making a turn into the new sewer line. The excavator said he would run a cast iron pipe through the foundation and it would end in a bell. How would I connect the ABS into a cast iron bell? What would be the best way of dealing with the existing toilets and sink drains. Meaning, do I replace all current pipe with plastic, or would I connect the current cast pipe to the ABS, and if so, what is the best way of doing so. Not just to be up to code but if there is a best way, I want to do it that way. Also, where are the appropriate places to put cleanouts? I would guess that I need one where the line is going to go through the foundation and another where each of the drain stacks meet the main line. Do I need additional cleanouts before or after the pipe turns for the corners or along the long (close to 50 foot) run? Thank you for any help.

    • #301845
      nicktheplumber
      tomckey wrote:
      …What diameter pipe should I use?

      4″ diameter soil pipe should be sufficient for your application.

      …How would I connect the ABS into a cast iron bell?

      I don’t know why your plumber recommended hub and spigot CI drain pipe…maybe that’s what he’s cutting into. Frankly, no-hub CI pipe would make more sense, and can be connected to other pipe with no-hub or Fernco type fittings. You could transition from the bell with a section of CI hubless pipe that’s either leaded into the bell or inserted with a neoprene compression fitting, and you can carry on from there with either no-hub or Fernco.

      What would be the best way of dealing with the existing toilets and sink drains. Meaning, do I replace all current pipe with plastic, or would I connect the current cast pipe to the ABS, and if so, what is the best way of doing so. Not just to be up to code but if there is a best way, I want to do it that way.

      There may be no “best way.” But try to make it easy on the next person who has to work on your system. Generally speaking, hub and spigot CI drains are not easy to work on, so go with hubless/Fernco fittings.

      Also, where are the appropriate places to put cleanouts? I would guess that I need one where the line is going to go through the foundation and another where each of the drain stacks meet the main line. Do I need additional cleanouts before or after the pipe turns for the corners or along the long (close to 50 foot) run? Thank you for any help.

      Cleanouts are specified by the plumbing codes (UPC, etc), based on cumulative bend angles and run lengths.

      Hope this helps.

      NtP

    • #301852
      PLMBWizardz

      International Code states that a cleanout is required at any horizontal 90 degree turn made of a sewer drain or at every 100 foot. Do not use cast iron unless you want to be replacing it again in 20-40 years. PVC PVC PVC. That should say enough. NO ABS.

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