Copper-to-PVC

[MasterPlumbersKeymaster]

I’m remodeling my master bath, and the boss wants the toilet moved 1′ to the left. Not a big deal, just moving the drain line into the adjacent joist cavity. Existing drain is 3″ soldered copper. I transitioned to 3″ pvc with a special connector that looks like a rubber sleeve with 2 gear clamps. How do these things hold up? I know the glued PVC connections won’t leak, but don’t want to seal this connector up in the floor only to have it leak in a couple years. Is this the best way to do this? Should I say with 100% copper?

I poured a kettle of hot water into the toilet drain, and nothing leaked, but don’t know if this is a good test or not.

I know a little about plumbing, but want to do the job the best way possible.

[Retired plbg1Participant]

We use them everyday, as long as you tourcked it enough.

[jomeisterParticipant]

retired plbg. Do you mean torque? If so what is the proper torque that is required? Thank You

» This message has been edited by John Aldrich on 08 January 2003

[nicktheplumberParticipant]

The prescribed torque is 60 inch-pounds for these connectors.The best way to getbthe right torque is to use a special wrench. Most have a T-handle. Good ones are a bit expensive (about $30-$50) but pay for themselves if you use them a lot. You might try renting or borrowing one for one-time use.

NtP

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