Bathroom fixture vents MIA

[MasterPlumbersKeymaster]

Not sure if it was the original “folk” architecture of our raised cottage, or some “remuddling” but in any event, the bathroom fixtures are not vented. We haven’t had problems yet, but judging by the gurgling in the bathroom sink when the toilet is flushed, it’s only a matter of time.

The toilet drain line is 3″ PVC with a nice slope to it. I am wondering if it can be vented as far as 6′ downstream from the toilet. (There are no other fixtures tying in on that length, but a tee from the lav drain would be another foot or so further downstream).

This would enable me to rip up the closet floor, which has to go anyway, rather than the bathroom floor (the house is only raised about 18″, so working from underneath is close to impossible).

If this works, could I also vent the lav line (1-1/2″ PVC) here, which would be about 4′ from the P-trap?

OK one more more dumb question….I read that a horizontal run of vent pipe must be higher than the fixture…Does this mean higher than where the fixture ties in to the drain line–higher than the trap–or higher than where the water enters the drain line (like the bottom of the lav basin)?????????

BTW, I know I’m going to have to have a licensed plumber get a permit and do the work, but I really would like to have the answers to these questions first, so I don’t sound like a total idiot….

Thanks,

THE TOTAL IDIOT

[SylvanLMPParticipant]

Not sure if it was the original “folk” architecture of our raised cottage, or some “remuddling” but in any event, the bathroom fixtures are not vented. We haven’t had problems yet, but judging by the gurgling in the bathroom sink when the toilet is flushed, it’s only a matter of time.The toilet drain line is 3″ PVC with a nice slope to it. I am wondering if it can be vented as far as 6′ downstream from the toilet< SNIP

Not normally I try to vent with in 2 feet of the fixture trap and the trap should be located no more then 2 feet from the fixture ( follow me? 48″ MAX)

. (There are no other fixtures tying in on that length, but a tee from the lav drain would be another foot or so further downstream).This would enable me to rip up the closet floor, which has to go anyway, rather than the bathroom floor (the house is only raised about 18″, so working from underneath is close to impossible).If this works, could I also vent the lav line (1-1/2″ PVC) here, which would be about 4′ from the P-trap? OK one more more dumb question….I read that a horizontal run of vent pipe must be higher than the fixture…Does this mean higher than where the fixture ties in to the drain line–higher than the trap–or higher than where the water enters the drain line (like the bottom of the lav basin)?????????
SNIP

When the code says “Above the fixture” it means about the “OVER FLOW RIM” not the over flow .

Let me tryto expalin .
the flood level rim is where the water level is on the verge of spilling on the floor from the fixture.

The “OVERFLOW” is where the water goes down the drain like either a bathtub or basin where the water goes down an opening before it can over flow the fixture ok?

A properly designed and installed vent with pitch away from the fixture being served and about the FLOOD LEVEL RIM of the fixture.

Another thing I never EVER bury a waste line less then 2″ diameter and I detest plastic drainage as the short radius of the fittings makes rodding( snaking) difficult .

BTW, I know I’m going to have to have a licensed plumber get a permit and do the work, but I really would like to have the answers to these questions first, so I don’t sound like a total idiot….Thanks, THE TOTAL IDIOT

Your not an IDIOT for asking the idiot is the guy who installed this system with 11/2 piping under ground and no venting.

The 3″ toilet line was just a guy looking to save pennies on installations.

ILL bet they even used schedule 40 pipe under ground TSK TSK TSK

Typical stumblebum approach, like some of the radient heating thiefs coming out of from under rocks

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