Replacing sump pump

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    • #278858
      MasterPlumbers
      Keymaster

      I am looking for information of how to replace a sump pump in my septic tank. It is 3 years old and the high warning light came on last night. I believe that I
      can replace it myself if i had a few instructions.
      Thank You for your help

    • #299444
      tonyr

      Sandra, has the pump really failed and if its failed then why? Most pumps have a longer life expectancy then just 3 years (some 5-10 years). If you did replace the pump without considering why it failed, you might go thru this again in a few years. On finding the pump, some pumps are located directly in the septic tank, while others are in a pump chamber or another tank outside your original tank. The installer should have installed a septic tank riser for access into the pump chamber. If not, access to the tank will have to be dug. I would strongly recommend seeking a professional because of the numerous problems with sewage applications: methane gas, contaments, etc… When the pump is removed, you can contact the manufacturer of the pump for life expectancy and possible troubleshooting tips. One helpful hint is when the pumps removed, see if the impeller inside the pump turns freely. If a rag, sanitary napkin or other materials entered the pump, this could jam the pump and cause a failure. If the pump checks out to be good, you could be having a lateral field (drainfield) problem which will not allow the water to be pumped out, causing a back up. Finally, if your not experiencing a slowing of your drains in your home, and the pump checks out good, find out if the alarm float could have slid down the pipe into the water line. If floats are not tied off well, I’ve seen situations were an alarm float gave a false alarm. I hope this helps.

    • #299445
      John Aldrich1

      Sandra Stephens, the advice given by tonyr is very good. If you still need instruction on exactly how to replace the sewage effluent pump however, you must provide a detailed description of the existing pump installation.

      Some specific troubleshooting procedures are to check the breaker in the electrical panel to be sure that the breaker protecting that circuit is not thrown, and check the connection of the pump circuit wires to the pump service wires for corrosion. If the pump service wire has a standard 120 volt plug, cut it off, and “hard wire” that connection in a waterproof box that is placed in another box which provides access to the electrical box from the surface of the ground. This electrical connection should not be made inside the septic tank, or pump pit, where a highly corrosive atmosphere is present, and potentially explosive gasses may accumulate.

      If you find that the pump electrical connections are the problem, please post that information on the Bulletin Board. As tonyr stated, high quality sewage effluent pumps usually have a very long service life. My experience has been that the Zoeller Pumps that I use last 10 to 15 years before the seals finally give out. I have replaced lower quality pumps that were purchased at “Do It Yourself” retail outlets, like Home Depot, by other installers, or homeowners, looking for the lowest priced pump. This practice is truely false economy. The Zoeller pumps cost about $60.00 more than the “low priced spread”, but last 5 to 10 times longer.
      JWA

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