- This topic has 3 replies, 4 voices, and was last updated 21 years, 1 month ago by SylvanLMP.
11 Mar 2000 at 11:49 pm #278474MasterPlumbersKeymaster
I have a water backup problem. The laundry/toilet water backs up into the bath tub. The toilet also leaks from the bottom. Within the past two years, I have paid 3 plumbers to fix this problem. My husband believes, I am the cause of the problem. Does anyone know any paticular reason this continues to happen? I hope someone can help. I am tired of paying plumbers for the same problem.
12 Mar 2000 at 2:28 pm #298579hj
Your problem is a partially obstructed main sewer line. I do not know what you have had the plumbers do, but you either have a very bad sewer which may require replacement, or you do not have very good plumbers. It is nothing you personally can do or prevent, short of not using any water.
23 Mar 2000 at 6:33 pm #298580Guest
Your problem might be that you need a swing check valve in the drain line between your washer outlet and the tub and/or toilet. The washer has a fairly powerful pump that forces the water from the drain hose, which I assume goes into a connection in your washroom wall. The water wants to take the easiest route out, and your bathtub drain is probably right nearby, connected to your washer drain line.
2 Apr 2000 at 11:37 pm #298581SylvanLMP
Rather then guessing what the problem can be lets try to find out several things. Is this a new home or an older one?
What kind of drain lines do you have? plastic / Cast Iron
I have no idea what the 3 other plumbers did BUT someone should have suggested removing the toilet and making a video inspection of the existing piping to see if a Cast Iron joint has a belly (dip) in it or if the the drain line just became slightly back pitched due to settlement or possible errosion from the various leaks (under mined). About the water seeping from under the toilet this is the sign of a poor connection between the toilet and floor flange. The plumber should have used a good quality DEEP SEAL wax gasket like Hercules or SOS brand with the plastic cone.
The pressure on this flange is minimal (.424 the flood level rim of the toilet) so were talking less than a pound pressure and MOST plumbing drainage is design tested to hold a 10 ft head of water.(5 PSI)
The video inspection will give you insight to what is really going on AND putting in a check valve (also called a back water valve)is not the correct thing to do ESPECIALLY if this only started happening 2 years ago.
A check valve
1- offers more restriction to the gravity of flow and thus more stoppages.
2- Makes rodding (snaking) much more difficult
3- Most model codes say this device has to be either exposed or at least accessible for maintenance AND most model codes frown upon the use of this device unless it is really necessary.(high water tables etc)
Would you let a doctor put in a pace maker without atleast taking an EKG or rays to see if you need one? SAME with plumbing WE now have state of the art video inspection equipment why not get a picture taken as one picture is indeed worth a thousand guesses.
The days and hit and miss plumbing are alive and well for the non Masters of this profession BUT like other professionals YOU should demand to see the Master Plumbers license before you allow anyone else to dabble with your plumbing. You could very well have a major under mining condition working away under the slab. GET A VIDEO Inspection to know exactly whats going on. Good Luck
<FONT SIZE=”1″ FACE=”Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif” color=”#FF0000″>[Edited by SylvanLMP on 02 April 2000]</font>
[Edited by SylvanLMP on 02 April 2000]
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