wiring plans for honeywell V8043 two position zone valve

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    • #277407
      MasterPlumbers
      Keymaster

      We have a Weil Mc Lain Gold oil burner. We are adding another zone valve to it and need to know how to wire it. Does anyone have the wiring plans or tell me how to do it? We are using a Honeywell V8043 E 1012 motorized valve. Its getting cold here in new jersey and need to get it done real soon. null

    • #296146
      AKPlumber
      Participant

      Well, considering this is an old post, I won’t hold my breath to see if it’s too late to reply to this. But I’ll try anyway.
      First off, I’ll try to simplify this without making it too complicated. The good news is that your using a very cool control for an amateur starting out with zoning, because it’s basically wired either way without damage to the power head itself, and the way I’ll discuss it here is just a 2 wire system, all as opposed to the critical 3 wire system of the Taco’s.
      Without seeing your present system it’s really hard to say what will and won’t work. For instance, I don’t know if you have your pump “hot wired” into the source AC as such would be the case popularly when you have a garage heater on the t-stat with just a simple bypass type return/supply piping. For the sake of brevity, I will use that example as it is the easiest, in other words, an intermittent ignition system, we can discuss intermittent circulation at a later date.
      In this scenario, you would then only need to simply bring the needed 24 volts up to the second zone and stat. In the direct wire scenario, you would simply connect both your stat wires coming off the transformer together to close the loop and make the boiler fire, and be sure to check the aquastat setting is at around 180 or so. You would then pick any two terminals on the transformer itself, usually the top two marked “R” and “C” (most all these types of transformers are the same all across the board on such boilers, typically a 50va…..funny considering they originally were designed for forced air furnaces, but they work, but then I digress)…using some t-stat wire, strip both your white and red and attach these to your terminals, bring the wire up through the hole supplied in the side of the furnace and route to your zone valve location on your manifold. Now you’ve brought 24 volts up. Again, for the sake of simplicity, take the reds from your t-stats and twist these together to your red from the transformer (which I will from now on call the source). Now you’ve brought your juice up. Now, on your zones, take both the red wires and cut them…..tuck them in somehwre near the valve body and forget them. Take one yellow from first zone, twist it together with the yellow from the second zone, and twist these together in turn to your white source wire. Take your second yellow from first zone, twist it with the white from your first stat. Same with the yellow from the 2nd stat to the 2nd zone. One way to tell with Honeywells’ that you’ve got the loads right is to take an ammeter clamp probe and clamp it around one of the yellow’s of the zone heads…..Honeywell’s usually always draw around 0.4 amps, while Taco’s draw around almost a full amp. You can tell your total load including from the gas valve (when activated) by using this same technique on the transformer. Now, plug her in, set your heads on Auto and the boiler should fire once the stats demand. This is just a simple example of a 2 zone honeywell wiring plan and by no means is the best or the only way, hope this helps.

      » This message has been edited by AKPlumber on 28 November 2004

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