Removing old under-vanity pipe

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  • This topic has 2 replies, 3 voices, and was last updated 17 years ago by nicktheplumber.
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    • #277379
      dkeating

      What are the basic tools and method of removing old wall pipe under kitchen or bathroom vanity sinks? Here’s the situation: under a close quarters bathroom vanity sink I’ve got a 6-8 inch long standard chrome plated straight pipe piece going into a cast iron house drain pipe at the wall. It is a circa 1961 installation and the chrome pipe appears to be leaded into a collar, and the collar then screws (?) into the cast iron house drain pipe. The chrome pipe is damaged & need to get it out & replace.

      I’ve tried a propane torch on the lead with no real success, but I reason that to do it right, I should grab a hold of the chrome pipe and turn it to unscrew it together with its collar flange (if in fact a screw-in flange is the way they did it in 1961). Then I can lead a new chrome pipe into the collar and reassemble (slipjoints & all …).

      A channel lock plier is not adequate — not enough torque in close quarters. I need to grab the chrome pipe with some sort of yoke (pipe is structually weak, but I can insert a wood plug to keep it from collapsing) and extend handles from the yoke to outside the vanity, where I can put on some real torque.

      Is there a tool for this, what must be a very common situation? Or … how? Thanks, in advance!



      jb

      Well, problem solved! Thanks to the guys who replied and it may help the next guy, to know how the job was actually done. The old installation was pretty well exactly as I described. To remove the old chrome waste bend, I cut it very short to the wall, used a small hacksaw (tiny Tim?) to split the remaining stub lengthwise. Then used a screwdriver to pry it out easily (no torch needed to melt the lead, nothin’!). The (brass?) ring sleeve that remained, turns out was screwed into the DWV, just as I suspected. Because it was so old and corroded, I could not turn it with a chisel, so I split that with a hacksaw also and pried it out. From there on, it was piece of cake — put in new standard new fitting, threaded on one end, compression ring on the other.

      A “curbside” plumber, on a job down the street, immediately recognized what I was describing in this post and told me how to proceed. So, Nick, even amateurs can get it done with a little good help. My general “amateurs” homebuilding theory is: no matter how dumb you are, if you look at it long enough, you can see how it is supposed to be done.

      » This message has been edited by jb on 21 October 2004

    • #296097
      Retired plbg1
      Participant

      You might have a tapped tee in wall that the trap arm are brass pipe is scred into. If you can heat it with torch it will come out easy, using a 12″ pipe wrench are a strap wrench. If you want the lead joint out you can drill it out and put in a dualtite gasket.



      Art retired plbg

    • #296098
      nicktheplumber
      Participant

      In such DWV work you’ve sometimes got to use brute force and radical pipe surgery. Of course you’ve got to have the tools, fittings, and know what you’re doing. Some of those undersink waste pipes may be threaded. Most are compression coupled. Some are soldered, caulked and leaded, or even brazed…Sometimes you just need to create the proper exposure and cut them out and re-plumb the connections. Hubless connectors are especially good for this kind of work.

      A licensed plumber would know what to do, and it’s really difficult to offer curbside advice to an amateur. If you’re baffled and can’t fugure it out easily by yourself, do yourself a favor and ask a plumber to look at it.

      NtP

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