- This topic has 6 replies, 3 voices, and was last updated 23 years, 1 month ago by
SylvanLMP.
-
Posts
-
-
MasterPlumbers
Every time we flush the toilet it makes a loud low pitch humming noise until the tank is full. We have replaced the fill-valve a few times which helped for about a week or two then the noise comes back. Any suggestions of how to repair the problems?
thank you -
Try closing the shut off valve half way and see if that does it.Sometimes you have to try several positions.This will reduce the flow rate which can somtimes cause the problem you desrcibed.
-
Wallingford , ARE you sure your really a journeyman and not some helper trying to get over on folks?
Before “throttling” a valve don’t you think it would be a great idea to ask if this valve is a globe type?
Y
ou do know a lot of upstate dummies have no clue to valve configurations.I personally would advice these folks to too look on the lower left hand side of the tank and see if they have an angle valve and this alone would tell me that it is a globe pattern.
If it is a straight valve it may well be a globe Or a gate and throttling down a gate is something YOU would do but not any real plumber as REAL plumbers would know about the erosion that could be caused do to the velocity passing this gate and causing dangerous flow patterns BUT hey your from upstate and don’t know any better and never bothered to read Hazen – Williams
Thankfully when the state requires all plumbers to finally LEARN THEIR Jobs you will thus be a real competent plumber rather then one who just say’s turns off the valve half way.
You do know about various valve patterns and as unbelievable as it may seen to you not all valves are designed for the same application.
Did you bother to think that there maybe a slight kink in the speedy supply tubing?
Did you bother to ask if the pressure was checked?
Or did you give a handyman’s opinion of arbitrarily shutting down valves of unknown design?
Now suppose these victims take your advice and shut a valve that happens to be a “Tile stop” controlling the shower also.
Would you like to be the one to cause someone to be scalded? TSK TSK TSK Hey WALL why not shut off the ENTIRE MAIN Valve this way the pressure will remain constant BUT the volume will be much less and these victims can save money on water usage.
Wall thinking like a guy from a home center instead of an upstate plummmmmmmmmmin guy why not ask a few questions so you can give an informed answer.
Like could there be loose washer if indeed there is a globe valve and this washer is slightly lose from the retaining ring this could also account for the noise.
Are these folks on city or well water where the possibility of sediment could be causing a slight restriction?
Or lets play like simpletons and shut off valves not knowing what type of valve it is or what it controls. YUP YOUR DA MAN.
I am impressed with your knowledge and how well you deduced this type of problem Thank you Kid I am impressed with your youth and get in and get out approach.
God Forbid you took the time to find the root of this problem JUST shut off valves as that’s the “Modern ” way.
Hopefully these folks will KNOW what you meant to say inspite of your inept advice.
Hey keep trying you may learn to think lke a semi mechanic if you live long enough.
Try closing a NYC main steam line sometime until the noise stops LOL
-
WOW!!Thank you Sylvan.Do you know how many lawsuits you saved me from.I called all my customers and let them know about the dangerous flow patterns in thier homes.All the valves have been opened and all is well again.I must be a lucky guy since some of these valves have been throttled for 10 years or better.I was going to call all the people with gate or ball valves on thier toilets but I couldn’t think of any.I’ll keep checking.Tile valve?nope, couldn’t remember any of those either.I think the news stations should be reporting on these hidden dangers.
-
quote:
Originally posted by Wallingford Plm+Htg:
WOW!!Thank you Sylvan.Do you know how many lawsuits you saved me from.I called all my customers and let them know about the dangerous flow patterns in thier homes.All the valves have been opened and all is well again.I must be a lucky guy since some of these valves have been throttled for 10 years or better.I was going to call all the people with gate or ball valves on thier toilets but I couldn’t think of any.I’ll keep checking.Tile valve?nope, couldn’t remember any of those either.I think the news stations should be reporting on these hidden dangers.
No problem kid I figured you would also leave off a flue pipe to get that extra bit of heat out of the water heater/boiler.
Some day you may learn about tile stops and sizing piping by hydraulics rather then the UPSTATE guessing rule.
Ah the joys of not knowing can lead to such a simple life style.
You young fellow never did tell me how you would repair a 48″ SW line?’
Are you a Propoxy specialist?
If you were a mechanic KIDDING LOL How would you replace the 48″ pipe section or repair it?
Using cow manure doesnt count my country plummmmmin buddy.
Your so lucky not having to deal with codes or formal plumbing training.
[Edited by SylvanLMP on 01 March 2001] -
I’m assuming that were talking about 4″ cast iron.I would first check all the piping since where you find one piece of bad cast you find more.I would then tell the customer how cast iron is outdated for residential use and it would make more sence to get rid of all of it.If the homeowner didn’t want do the write thing,I would then do a quick repair.I would simply cut the cast beyond the bad sections and using two no hub clamps I would install a new section of no hub.For some reason I think your talking about 48″ diameter pipe.If this were the case I would call in sick that day.
-
quote:
Originally posted by Wallingford Plm+Htg:
I’m assuming that were talking about 4″ cast iron.I would first check all the piping since where you find one piece of bad cast you find more.I would then tell the customer how cast iron is outdated for residential use and it would make more sence to get rid of all of it.If the homeowner didn’t want do the write thing,I would then do a quick repair.I would simply cut the cast beyond the bad sections and using two no hub clamps I would install a new section of no hub.For some reason I think your talking about 48″ diameter pipe.If this were the case I would call in sick that day.
Ranjan Abayasekara wrote on 21 February 2001 at 11:56 PM:
I have a crack on a 48″ dia SW Main. Intended repair is to wrap with Fibre Glass fabric.
Shall appreciate any feedback on this proposal.
Thanks.WHY go home? STAY on the job and possibly learn something about repairing instead of just being a “replacement” specialist
-
- You must be logged in to reply to this topic.
