Deep Well Pump Pressure

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    • #274457
      billbob406

      I have a Deep well Pump in my house. The darn thing runs a long time before shuting of at 42#, and cuts in at 20#.

      When the water is running from two places in the house full blast, the pump comes on, it sounds like it is not getting enough water. It stays around 25#. I turn off one thing and the pressure goes up to 30# and it stays at that point untill I turn the water off.

      At one time I could flush the John twice before the pump came on, now it comes on as soon as I flush.

      The Pump is a Tait 3/4 horse, the tank is a Well/trol Model wx202.

      On the top of the pump head there is a elbo going to a “T” and straint to my tank. On the “T” is my guage on top. On the “T” is a thing to turn, like a slot for a screw driver. It now is horizonal to the “T”, or 90 deges to the guage. If I turn it one way just a little the guage goes up and my water pressure goes down, the other it labors.

      The pressure is 30# in the tank, I think? Well it was 20 years ago….

      If the pressure is 30# and still the problem, what next.

      And what the heck is that thing I can turn. Should I install a gauge after the pump on a line going to the house? Maybe that would help on the adjustments?

      Thanks for your time…

      Dave

    • #289786
      daveroconn
      Participant

      Did you check the pressure in your tank with it full of water? You can only check that pressure with the tank empty.

      The only way an expansion tank can drain is for air behind the bladder to push it out. If your tank does not drain completely than it does not have enough air in it to displace the water inside. This would cause the symptoms you described your tank sounds as thought it has a very short drawdown that is the water available to your house before your pump kicks on. If tank hasn’t sufficient pressure to displace all of the water inside then it is waterlogged. You should be able to easily move the tank empty.

      To drain an expansion tank

      First you need to drain the tank as far as it can go by itself. Next using a bicycle tire pump fill up the tank only until the water begins to flow out. Do not over pump the tank or you may ruin the bladder. Keep doing this until you are sure all of the air is out of the tank. Now to obtain the proper air pressure this can only be checked with the tank empty. Fill the tank up with 2 psi below the start of your pressure switch. (Example 30 psi on means 28 psi in the tank.) If the tank will not hold this pressure then the bladder has failed.

      Now it would be a good time to disinfect the tank with some bleach. Use an empty filter sump housing to introduce about a 1/4 cup of bleach into the tank you will need some valves to do this. Now rinse the tank by filling it and draining it several times.

      Respectfully David F. Walling

    • #289787
      Bowdoctor
      Participant

      Thanks for your help
      I will let you know what happens!

      quote:


      Originally posted by daveroconn:
      Did you check the pressure in your tank with it full of water? You can only check that pressure with the tank empty.

      The only way an expansion tank can drain is for air behind the bladder to push it out. If your tank does not drain completely than it does not have enough air in it to displace the water inside. This would cause the symptoms you described your tank sounds as thought it has a very short drawdown that is the water available to your house before your pump kicks on. If tank hasn’t sufficient pressure to displace all of the water inside then it is waterlogged. You should be able to easily move the tank empty.

      To drain an expansion tank

      First you need to drain the tank as far as it can go by itself. Next using a bicycle tire pump fill up the tank only until the water begins to flow out. Do not over pump the tank or you may ruin the bladder. Keep doing this until you are sure all of the air is out of the tank. Now to obtain the proper air pressure this can only be checked with the tank empty. Fill the tank up with 2 psi below the start of your pressure switch. (Example 30 psi on means 28 psi in the tank.) If the tank will not hold this pressure then the bladder has failed.

      Now it would be a good time to disinfect the tank with some bleach. Use an empty filter sump housing to introduce about a 1/4 cup of bleach into the tank you will need some valves to do this. Now rinse the tank by filling it and draining it several times.

      Respectfully David F. Walling


    • #289788
      Bowdoctor
      Participant

      I let the water out of the tank and set the pressure in the tank at 28# and the cut in at 30#. The cut off is 40#. It works better now, but it takes a long long time to shut off.

      The tank when empty is EMPTY, I can rock it back and forth easy and no water log of the tank.

      Thanks for all the help from all…

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