PRESSURE REDUCING VALVE

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    • #280889
      Yakov Twersky

      We live in a high water pressure area (170-200psi constantly). Recently, many neighhbors have put on new Watts 25AUB PRV only to find that soon thereafter, the inside water pressure is OCCASIONALLY at 120-140psi, but most frequently at the set 60psi. We are on our 2nd valve in 13 months. Since we have learned we have a closed water system, will putting on a thermal exp tank correct this problem? Also, we are on our 2nd water heater in 2 months because of the jacket bursting on top and water leakage. We also had 3 t&p valves put on the heater in December because of leakage. Shouldnt the PRV and T&P valves control this situation and push the water through the T&P drainage pipe? Please help me and my neighbors as we drudge through this problem with the water dept.

    • #305181
      Janice Hayes

      : We live in a high water pressure area (170-200psi constantly). Recently, many neighhbors have put on new Watts 25AUB PRV only to find that soon thereafter, the inside water pressure is OCCASIONALLY at 120-140psi, but most frequently at the set 60psi. We are on our 2nd valve in 13 months. Since we have learned we have a closed water system, will putting on a thermal exp tank correct this problem? Also, we are on our 2nd water heater in 2 months because of the jacket bursting on top and water leakage. We also had 3 t&p valves put on the heater in December because of leakage. Shouldnt the PRV and T&P valves control this situation and push the water through the T&P drainage pipe? Please help me and my neighbors as we drudge through this problem with the water dept.Does the main pressure reducing valve have a filter before it ??the hot water might be best if it had its own pressure limiting valve on it. Hope the company that maufactured the valves on the unit came to the game re the cost of the second tank.and yes, the t&p valve should have stoped the tank from splitting, thats its only purpose in life. That is why its on the tank

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