Low Hot Water Pressure Fixed in Minutes

[MasterPlumbersKeymaster]

I had low hot water pressure in my Chicago apartment, old galvanized pipes.
I called this guy, he came with a hand held pump, actioned by a piston, connected it to the pipe (thru the shower head connection), open the hot circuit, pumped about 10 times (reversing flow) and then removing it…the hot water came like a cascade…with sediments.
In fact it was a water pump w/double action, pushing against the pressure in the systemnd then allowing the water flow – thus creating a motion upon which small particles of sediments acted to separate more and more sediments…
Anyone seen something like this?
I thing it will put the plumbers out of business…

[bungieParticipant]

Nope, it will creat lots of work. He is removing the only thing inside the pipe stoping it from leaking after years of it rusting internally, the scale. This will weaken the wall of the gal pipe, and let is leak/burst. Hope he has bloody good insurance

[fourth yearParticipant]

I would never use my water ram to do it because like Bungie said, it can cause leaks if the pipe has marginal spots in it. But I have capped the shower or faucet that had poor pressure, turned off the hot water heater valve, and then opened a hot water faucet that had good pressure. Then you open both hot and cold water faucets where the cap is and backflush with city pressure. If the pipe is just blocked with rust particles that have accumlated like a log jam, this will dislodge them and restore some pressure. It does not dislodge any rust particles that are sealing potential leaks.

[SylvanLMPParticipant]

Sabin, In, NY we had one area that was known for hard water.

The Jamaica water supply was from well water and a lot of the older homes had Galvanized lines blocked up with sediment.

Listing to a “Helper” I have to laugh as Jamaica water supply would come out for FREE and disconnect their meter from the main and blow out the lines to get almost full flow restored.

With over 60 PSI pressure. This was well over 30 years ago (I was an apprentice at that time)

They did have the home owners sign a general release in case a pipe should rupture and they also were released from all liability in case the sediment became so packed it would render the branch or main useless.

This was a stop gap procedure that only gave folks possibly another 20 + years of service depending on the piping integrity.

The last person to ever get advice from is someone who knows MUCH LESS THEN YOU (like a schlepper)

You had limited choices either taking this chance Or going for a re pipe job you honestly didn’t have much in the way of options

Time will tell how well you made out.

What you bought was time to think about if you want to move, re pipe it or leave it status quo for possibly the next few years.

What a helpers mind cannot comprehend is common sense approach to things.

The piston did the job and thats all that counts

[Edited by SylvanLMP on 04 November 2000]

[wpcParticipant]

I would be very carefull if you resort to the ram jet approach. I personaly will not use pressure to unclog drains. I have seen these products rupture lines. A drainage system is not rated for pressures that these can cause.

[SylvanLMPParticipant]

wpc wrote on 04 November 2000 at 01:06 AM:

I would be very carefull if you resort to the ram jet approach. I personaly will not use pressure to unclog drains. I have seen these products rupture lines. A drainage system is not rated for pressures that these can cause.

WPC what “Drainage are you talking about?

Now for a point of information.

I have several hand snakes (one for each van) plus 3 water jetters JetMax , Ridgid and 3 General Super 90 machines and one Electric Eel Model J really heavy duty commerical stuff and my top Water Jetter which can produce 3000 PSI @10 GPM or 14 GPM @ 2,500 PSI depending on applications.

BUT the best all around drain cleaning tool ever developed in my opinion is the Ram Jet for the old SMALL diameter piping systems.

Think about the following for example.

An old building can have a lead trap and up to 5 feet of developed length of lead drain piping .

Imagine a snake going through a 100 year old lead line? FORGETABOUTIT instant puncture through the dip/crown weir of the trap.

Ever see a LONG RADIUS 11/2 galvanized drainage ell? VERY rare indeed huh?

Again the snake would not pass the sanitary tee and next 90 degree turn
without some difficulty especialy with the 180 DEGREE trap in place

Now with the RAM JET you do have the option to start off with 10 PSI or 50 PSI or anything in between.

A full 50% of my companies profit comes from drain cleaning and my Ram Jets are one of the few tools that actually pay for themselves the 1st time used.

Think about all the cheap tubular brass now being used on a tub wastes OR a standing waste for that matter.

It would take a real pro to snake round these 22 gauge fittings that the stumble bums install without puncturing them.

Here I send out a mechanic with his trusty RAM JET and one possibly two shots and $325 later he is off to the next job.

It sure beats the hell out of snaking a very old line over a computer store or worse over some law office.

The snake is great on hard stoppages like rags, roots and water jetting is made for soft stoppages BUT a Ram Jet is good for those fixture stoppage of hair and just some soap scum build up like a basin or bathtub and A/C condensate and indirect bar sink waste lines.

Any tool in the hands of a helper is dangerous as they help create work if they are left unattended and unsupervised, But like any tool in the hands of a skilled craftsman a Ram jet can serve its purpose, BUT it is not to be used for all job conditions.

If it could be used for all applications I could have just saved myself $12,000 + for my new water jetting system. Plus the Van that its built into.

One tool doesn’t do it all in this trade BUT having the right tool in the hands of the right person makes all the difference in the world.

Have a GREAT WEEK END

[wpcParticipant]

I beleive I seen the ram jet mentioned. The reason I mentioned the problem with the pressure applied to a drain system is that they are prone to damage if the blockage will allow back pressure to build to point in which the joints in a drainage system to come apart especially older systems.
[Edited by wpc on 04 November 2000]

[SylvanLMPParticipant]

WPC, I agree if the joints and this system is NOT PROPERLY Vented a problem could occur.

Any time you work on older piping there is always the possibility of something failing.

This is the major reason I refuse to send out a helper/apprentice to do a mans job LOL. Besides its illegal in most of the better localities to send out a non licensed gentleman even in drain cleaning some states demand a license.

Why take a chance with an unskilled/unlicensed person who honestly may not have the skills to know what is the proper way to proceed?

Even drain cleaning can have its moments.

[murphyplumbing.comParticipant]

In California employees and helpers do not need to be licensed, only the owner of the company. In Iowa and a few other midwestern states the owner doesnt need any kind of a license. Any handyman can advertise and be a plumber, except in the DeMoines area. I live in California and have seen alot of helpers cause alot of damage. I do not like using high pressure water to clear drains. I have seen alot of problems like water hitting the clog and then coming up in another drain in the house! You should always have the homeowner sign a waiver so your not responsible when you screw it up! I do own a plumbing company but I dont believe it’s the homeowners fault if a plumber comes out and says they need the hydro jet and then floods the home and says, oh well, ah, sorry. Use the snakes or do a repipe, thats what we do and knock on wood, we have never had a complaint or secondary damage. If we cant clear it, NO CHARGE.

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