Home › Forums › Archives › Old Bulletin Board Archives › Hard water deposits in Hot Water Heater
- This topic has 3 replies, 2 voices, and was last updated 25 years, 4 months ago by George Karigan.
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21 Dec 1998 at 1:03 am #281180Richard M. Kontny
I have a gas water heater and small rock like particles are continually being deposited in bath tubs and they clog up my water faucet filters. Im flushing the water tank about 2 times a year. Ive replaced the Water heater outlet valve for full flow. No matter how long I flush the tank, I cant seem to get rid of the particles. Any suggestions?
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21 Dec 1998 at 7:44 am #304981George KariganParticipant
: I have a gas water heater and small rock like particles are continually being deposited in bath tubs and they clog up my water faucet filters. Im flushing the water tank about 2 times a year. Ive replaced the Water heater outlet valve for full flow. No matter how long I flush the tank, I cant seem to get rid of the particles. Any suggestions?are you sure these are hard water particles. i have reports of some -plastic-cold water dip tubes that are comming apart into little pieces that give the problems you indicate. as plastic floats flushing from the bottom doesnt help much.remove the hot side fitting on top and flush. also remove and inspect the dip tube on cold side. good luck
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21 Dec 1998 at 7:44 am #304987George KariganParticipant
George:–blm189 (the previous poster) has a good point, there have been quite a bit of problems associated with defective dip tubes in heaters recently, and is certainly worth checking out. If you live in a hard water locale, and the problem is actually the accumulation of precipitated mineral deposits collecting in the bottom of your heater, you might wish to try this. It will require shutting down the heater for a breif time. Before doing this, purchase a brass 3/4 nipple 3 long..a 3/4 FIP brass full flow ball valve…and a 3/4 MIP X 3/4 male hose thread adapter. If you can obtain a main burner orifice that is sized for approximately 60 to 75% of the rated firing capacity. (the firing rate is found on the rating plate on the heater..if it says 40,000 BTUs, get an orifice sized for 30,000 BTUs. Shut the gas and water off. Drain the tank(this may take quite a while if the bottom of the tank is loaded with mineral debris). Unscrew the mickey mouse drain cock that came with the heater and throw it away. With a wet vacuum and a small tube taped to the hose, try to suck as much of the accumulated crud out as possible. When you have done your best, install the brass nipple..valve..and hose adapter (use pipe dope or teflon tape of course). When the new valve is installed, connect the largest diameter garden hose you can find to the male adapter on the new valve. position the discharge end of the hose in an area where you can observe the trash that will be coming out of your heater when you turn the water on…turn it on… While the water is flowing into the tank, have a qualified person install the new smaller orifice in the main burner. When that is completed, shut off the water, turn on the gas and relight the heater. The water heater will run a little longer between cycles…if the temperature is set above 140 degrees F., reduce the setting to that figure or below. Your water heater will run for years longer with little or no collection of crapola in the bottom of the tank. If you feel that this amount of labor is unwarranted for an old tank, and you opt to buy a new one…do the same thing to the new one, and double the life of the heater while doing away with the rocks in your water. Lots of luck, and Merry Christmas…Bud…
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21 Dec 1998 at 7:44 am #309012George KariganParticipant
: George:–blm189 (the previous poster) has a good point, there have been quite a bit of problems associated with defective dip tubes in heaters recently, and is certainly worth checking out. : If you live in a hard water locale, and the problem is actually the accumulation of precipitated mineral deposits collecting in the bottom of your heater, you might wish to try this. : It will require shutting down the heater for a breif time. Before doing this, purchase a brass 3/4 nipple 3 long..a 3/4 FIP brass full flow ball valve…and a 3/4 MIP X 3/4 male hose thread adapter. If you can obtain a main burner orifice that is sized for approximately 60 to 75% of the rated firing capacity. (the firing rate is found on the rating plate on the heater..if it says 40,000 BTUs, get an orifice sized for 30,000 BTUs. : Shut the gas and water off. the tank(this may take quite a while if the bottom of the tank is loaded with mineral debris). Unscrew the mickey mouse drain cock that came with the heater and throw it away. With a wet vacuum and a small tube taped to the hose, try to suck as much of the accumulated crud out as possible. When you have done your best, installd you opt to buy a new one…do the same thing to the new one, and double the life of the heater while doing away with the rocks in your water. : Lots of luck, and Merry Christmas…Bud light…
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