12 Oct 2000 at 8:08 pm #273677MasterPlumbersKeymaster
Trying to hook up Maytag SE 1000 Series 07 apt. size washing machine.
We’ve snaked and air-pressured the outgoing waste pipe and it seems to be clear, but every time we try the “spin” cycle again, the water comes spurting back out of the waste pipe after a few seconds (you can hear it coming).
Immediately after stopping the water from pumping, the water goes down the pipe just fine. (In other words, the pipe wouldn’t overflow if we kept hitting rinse/stop, rinse/stop, etc.
Maytag said the wastewater’s pump speed is 16-21 gpm. There is another washer in the house that works just fine (different drain, but same diameter),that washer also is rated at 16-21 gpm.
Is there anything one can do to slow down the speed of the exiting wastewater? What about just installing a smaller wastewater hose from the washer to the wastepipe?
I am hoping I don’t have to buy a different washer/dryer. (Tearing up the yard to replace the waste pipe is out of the question).
12 Oct 2000 at 9:53 pm #288278
Snaking and ram jetting (pneumatic pressure) will not restore piping to a like new condition.
You see a snake and ram jet only go through a stoppage still leaving lots of debris on the internal piping walls.
Water jetting if performed properly will remove these deposits and all the pipe to drain as intended chemicals are not only a waste of time BUT money also.
Hire a professional plumber with a water jetter.
12 Oct 2000 at 10:16 pm #288279
I would hire a plumber who has a camera to inspect the line, then go from that point as they say a picture is worth a thousand words.
13 Oct 2000 at 7:59 am #288280
If the contractor uses a shark tooth cutter after breaking the choke, the pipes will be clean, not shiny, but all roots and debrie will be gone.
Unfortunatly some contractors will send a cork screw down the line to open the choke, and then tell the owner that if this blockes in the next 6 months the lines will need to be replaced. This is an old con, if the contractor uses a “snake” then ensure they do it correctly
13 Oct 2000 at 11:17 pm #288281
Bungie and WPC As an owner of a video inspection system Microengineering of California and their fantastic locator AND an owner of SEVERAL water jetters (Jetmax) and owner of snakes varying from 1/4″ to 11/8 with capabilities of 3/4″ to 20 “piping I must bring to your attention the folllowing if you don’t mind.
Most codes allow a 2″ waste line for a washing machine discharge for residential usage.
Now considering the above writer did say “Trying to hook up Maytag SE 1000 Series 07 apt. size washing machine.” I would consider this a residential installation and thus having a 2″ discharge line.
Now also from being an EXPERT SEWER and Drain contractor AND A holder of several master plumbing licenses I would also consider the fact that if these lines are NOT cast Iron they would either be plastic 2″ Garbage or Galvanized drainage Or copper DWV piping and fittings.
Now I don’t know about your experiences but in My professional time in the field I have NEVER found anyone who used a long radius fitting on plastic Or a long radius galvanized Or copper 90’s UNLESS it was specified.
The reason I ONLY use cast iron is I like LONG sweeps BUT this most lightly this is not the case SO thus using a Master plumbers mentally I would so say that the majority of 3/8″ snakes that could pass a 2″ elbow would differently get jammed up using a (Bungie suggestion) Cutter head through the trap and any angles past the 2nd 90 degree fitting
Now as far as WPC Again even my FANTASTIC State of the ART MICROENGINEERING Camera would be hard pressed to go through a trap and ANY 2″ short radius 90 degree bend other then possibly a short sweep.
Bungie as an EXPERT you can believe me when I tell you snaking will NOT remove the debris on the internal piping like a jetter will.
Here Bungie read my article this may help you better understand WHY we EXPERTS never rely on tool to do it all.
Have a great one Mate.
Hey atleast we agree no caustic and useless chemicals should be used. Ta Dum
14 Oct 2000 at 1:40 am #288282
Several states do use the standard plumbing code which require the use of long sweep 90’s in the drainage system, one example is horizontal to vertical where short radius may be used according to code, now what the plumbing inspector will approve is a different story. One solution to the trap is to put a tee in the vent which also makes a good place to clean out the line also. One possible solution, if room is available is to install a laundry tub letting the washer drain into it and letting water that accumlates drain more slowly. Also Many washers are draining at 17 gallons/minute which is a load for a 2in. line, some washers go as high as 22 gal/min.
14 Oct 2000 at 2:17 am #288283
WPC, I cant agree with you more about using a laundry tub to catch the volume discharged from a washing machine with a proper air break.
The Idea of a full sized plugged tee in a vent line above the flood level rim should be encouraged BUT how many idiots would then use it for a wet vent connection?
I am sure you have seen many vent pipes drilled so rodding can be accomplished as removing a brass trap from an old galvanized nipple is asking for a few hours extra work.
I think the problem is lack of code enforcement and sending out non skilled helpers instead of a properly trained mechanic as it saves money.
IF contractors were given hefty fines for using apprentices in lieu of journeymen and having some type of testing as to CO locations this trade would again be considered an honored profession.
If the governing bodies were honestly concerned about public safety instead of giving fines for not filing a new basin MORE concentration should be towards the selling of gas fired appliances to non licensed stumble bums and DIY folks who install home center specials.
To many jerks out there asking a store clerk how to install a gas appliance Or asking a store clert sight sight unseen what could be causing the leak in a kitchen ceiling. We also need a higher caliper of inspector who actually knows their job.
14 Oct 2000 at 8:58 am #288284
14 Oct 2000 at 6:06 pm #288285
Bungie, WOW I am impressed Nice view from your window and your plumbing looks VERY complicated
It looks like the set up I did for an autopsy table in a hospital many years ago
I would strongly suggest you label everything for the next bloke who comes along trying to figure out what the hell is all this LOL.
You did some pretty fancy brazing work and your copper bending skills are second to none.
I did notice that the T&P dischage seems to be reduced slightly and also connected to another line, I would personally have kept each relief valve discharge either seperate or increased the pipe size.
Honstly you did one hell of a job really nice work.
Thank you so much for sharing. Sylvan
15 Oct 2000 at 4:06 am #288286
That size T&P valve has a standard 1/2″ outlet, It doesnt look like it but the T&P valve and the cold water expansion valve both run seperatly to the tundish on the other side of the hot water unit. But the code allows for them too run as one pipe in 1/2″.
Thanks for your comments
15 Oct 2000 at 4:50 am #288287
N bungie thank you as I made a copy of your picture, hey you never know when I may need a job down yonder.
As for 2 relief valves discharging into one as long as they can handle the volume of both why not BUT I once came across a battery of boiers all using seperate relief valves in one common header talk about going crazy to find the one that failed and was seeping.
Again thank you a your picture is worth a million words you did a great job there mate I may have to reconsider my out look on you blokes plumbing ability LOL GREAT JOB
15 Oct 2000 at 4:07 pm #288288
15 Oct 2000 at 11:02 pm #288289
I enjoyed looking at your photos but you might have to add some insulation on the hot water pipe.
16 Oct 2000 at 11:14 am #288290
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