Home › Forums › Archives › Old Bulletin Board Archives › GAS HOT WATER HEATER – NEW RELIEF VALVE LEAKING/ SYSTEM HAS EXPANSION TANK.
- This topic has 7 replies, 2 voices, and was last updated 25 years, 11 months ago by
jeff sanchez.
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24 Sep 1998 at 3:39 pm #284426
Corey Small
TOUGH ONE. MY HOME IS 4 YEARS YOUNG.THE PRESSURE RELIEF VALVE ON MY WATER HEATER BEGAN TO LEAK AFTER I REPAIRED A SEAL IN A FAUCET THAT REQUIRED ME TO SHUT THE MAIN WATER LINE OFF.I REPLACED THE RELIEF VALVE. STILL THE SAME PROBLEM. MY SYSTEM HAS AN EXPANSION TANK. I TRIED LOWERING THE PRESSURE ON MY REGULATOR. I TRIED LOWERING THE TEMPERATURE SETTING. THE ONLY WAY IT STOPS IS WHEN I SHUT THE WATER SUPPLY VALVE OFF TO THE HOT WATER HEATER. AS SOON AS I TURN THE SUPPLY ON EVEN SLIGHTLY THE RELIEF VALVE STARTS TO LEAK.WHAT CAN POSSIBLY BE WRONG?
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25 Sep 1998 at 11:02 am #304317
jeff sanchez
ParticipantJeff:– Replace the T&P relief valve, they can and do fail quite often. The cost for a new relief valve is less than $10, and will probably take care of your problem. Be sure to match the relief valve to your particular application (if it is a gas fired water heater match the relief valve to the fireing rate on the rating plate (BTUs)) Lots of luck……..Bud.
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25 Sep 1998 at 11:02 am #304319
jeff sanchez
ParticipantIf the regulator is failing, turning the pressure down only works while a faucet is running. As soon as flow stops, the pressure will rise to the main system pressure, and if this is more than your relief valves rating, it will leak The relief valve probably neds replacing, it shuld be done every few years anyway, but check the system pressure with a gauge to evaluate the regulator.: TOUGH ONE. : MY HOME IS 4 YEARS YOUNG.THE PRESSURE RELIEF VALVE ON MY WATER HEATER BEGAN TO LEAK AFTER I REPAIRED A SEAL IN A FAUCET THAT REQUIRED ME TO SHUT THE MAIN WATER LINE OFF.I REPLACED THE RELIEF VALVE. STILL THE SAME PROBLEM. MY SYSTEM HAS AN EXPANSION TANK. I TRIED LOWERING THE PRESSURE ON MY REGULATOR. I TRIED LOWERING THE TEMPERATURE SETTING. THE ONLY WAY IT STOPS IS WHEN I SHUT THE WATER SUPPLY VALVE OFF TO THE HOT WATER HEATER. AS SOON AS I TURN THE SUPPLY ON EVEN SLIGHTLY THE RELIEF VALVE STARTS TO LEAK.WHAT CAN POSSIBLY BE WRONG?
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25 Sep 1998 at 11:02 am #304332
jeff sanchez
ParticipantWhat is the pressure of air in the domestic expansion tank? Since you have already replaced the relief valve we know it isnt that. The expansion tank must be one specifically for domestic water, not one used for boilers. What is the model of tank? The air pressure in the tank as compared to the water pressure in the house is important. It will tell you what it must be in the instructions. If you dont know the water pressure in the house you dont have enough info to go any further. It will help answer questions.
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25 Sep 1998 at 11:02 am #304335
jeff sanchez
Participant: What is the pressure of air in the domestic expansion tank? Since you have already replaced the relief valve we know it isnt that. The expansion tank must be one specifically for domestic water, not one used for boilers. What is the model of tank? The air pressure in the tank as compared to the water pressure in the house is important. It will tell you what it must be in the instructions. If you dont know the water pressure in the house you dont have enough info to go any further. It will help answer questions.
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25 Sep 1998 at 11:02 am #304336
jeff sanchez
Participant: What is the pressure of air in the domestic expansion tank? Since you have already replaced the relief valve we know it isnt that. The expansion tank must be one specifically for domestic water, not one used for boilers. What is the model of tank? The air pressure in the tank as compared to the water pressure in the house is important. It will tell you what it must be in the instructions. If you dont know the water pressure in the house you dont have enough info to go any further. It will help answer questions.pressure in tank:40psi model:therm-x-trol for domestic potable water make:amtrol the water pressure coming from the main line must be enormus. i drained the whole system, charged the expansion tank to 40psi. refilled the system and the relief valve popped with cold water in the hot water heater! my pressure regulator must have gone bad when i first shut down the main valve? the the volume of water is normal. i have no way to check the pressure.i noticed that my main line has a lot of pressure and volume by adjusting the regulator. can there be +150lbs of pressure in my system with normal volume?will a new regulator fix this condition?thanks very much in advance.jeff
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25 Sep 1998 at 11:02 am #304348
jeff sanchez
ParticipantSorry about getting back here. Havent been on Net lately. Sopunds like pressure regulator is bad. There are inexpensive pressure gages you can buy that go on the outside faucet. Just screw to faucet, open and read pressure. But definitely sounds like regulator. Call city water department and ask what street pressure is in your street.
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25 Sep 1998 at 11:02 am #304371
jeff sanchez
Participant: Sorry about getting back here. Havent been on Net lately. Sopunds like pressure regulator is bad. There are inexpensive pressure gages you can buy that go on the outside faucet. Just screw to faucet, open and read pressure. But definitely sounds like regulator. Call city water department and ask what street pressure is in your street.jeff p you hit it right on the head. i had 150lbs plus of water pressure coming in from the main. the pressure tester and brass cost $12. and the plumbing store had my exact replacement regulator. everything is fine now. thanks very much.this web sit is very helpful.jeff s
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