- This topic has 13 replies, 7 voices, and was last updated 20 years, 12 months ago by bungie.
19 Sep 2000 at 3:16 am #273528Anonymous
I have very low hot water pressure. The maintenance manual says I should check the relief valve once a year which I’ve never done (5 yrs.!). Is this fairly easy for me to do? Any tips?
19 Sep 2000 at 10:22 am #287941bungieParticipant
On the end of the valve is a small silver “hook”, lift it up and let it down …. you have now checked the pressure relief valve.
ohhh …… that will not increase your pressure tho
20 Sep 2000 at 3:01 am #287942GuestParticipant
Thx for your advice. It turns out the gas man was here several months ago and he neglected to fully turn on the cold water feed to the hot water tank. So the problem is fully resolved as well as my fussy faucet!
Thx again…really enjoying the Olympics, what a country!
20 Sep 2000 at 12:48 pm #287943GuestParticipant
What Bungie did’nt tell you is that after five years of not having tested your relief valve it might just fail when you do!This being the case you might just want to call a lic plumber to look at this potentialy life threating device,he or she can also check your anode rod ,dip tube ,see if you are in need of an expansion tank for your potable water system.If the relief valve does leak after you test it DO NOT PLUG IT have it replaced ASAP. JIM
20 Sep 2000 at 1:16 pm #287944bungieParticipant
And they can sell you some miracle medicine that will cure ya ingrown toe nails while he/she is there.
21 Sep 2000 at 2:35 am #287945SylvanLMPParticipant
Jim, you fail to realize the Aussie mentality. They don’t have the ASME so saving $4 for a new T&P makes sense.
Nothing like leaving a CHEAP T&P in a potential bomb as after all we Professional plumbers know that a T&P should be replaced every 2-3 years.
I for one happen to agree with you Jim as after all the temperature / pressure relief device is the ONLY SAFETY on this tank the rest is an operating control.
Here the probe (element) of the T&P is immersed in chemical/mineral water that puts a nice insulating coating on the probe so it may be off by several degrees
Having a BRASS Valve in contact with a steel tank is always a wonderful idea as far as corrosion goes.
Telling someone to try the test lever sight unseen NOT KNOWING if the installer even bothered to put a full sized discharge pipe safely to prevent scalding or if it is even full sized makes a lot of sense. Just because some folks testing relief valves do get scalded doesn’t mean EVERYONE will hey life is risk taking correct?
I know I can buy a brand new ASME/AGA rated T&P for UNDER $4 BUT hey the old one could never be called to activate so Why bother JUST like the hand brake on a car its seldom used so why have it ever serviced?
Bungie is correct WHY BOTHER to replace it every few years after all its not his house or family at risk.
Explosions only happen to the other guy and the licensed master plumber may even charge a little over $125 for this installation I do it for $85 for ALL my accounts every 2 years BUT hey I am silly as I want them around for future work.
Considering the valve cost under $5 and it takes no more then a half HR to install (with traveling time) Why not play it safe just like a yearly physical it just makes sense.
But hey $85 is $85 and saving money for a great looking coffin is the way to go.
Unfortuntly I was in Oklahoma right after a heater blew up and killed several children due to a missing/defective T&P and knowing these kids dies for lack of a $3 part at that time kind of left a bitter taste in my mouth.
The handyman who caused this tragedy figured “hey its only a valve”
21 Sep 2000 at 9:54 am #287946bungieParticipant
A 1/2″ temp/pressure relief valve my price is $48.64 + 15% mark up + 10% GST = AU$61.52 $4 ?? sounds like you are putting in cheap shit buddy.
Yep, after not releasing the valve for 5 yrs it might fail. Maybe you should explain that “fail” means that water will flow from it not that it will blow off their hand, as implied
“killed several children due to a missing/defective T&P” … missing or defective ?? as you lead us to believe you were the states witness in this case i thought you might have a better idea
“I do it for $85 for ALL my accounts every 2 years BUT hey I am silly as I want them around for future work.” … NO, you are generating work for now, please be truthfull
ASME ?? i assume this is your standards ? AS3500 is the name here. ASME is the standard that allows copper pipe so thin that it fails on a regular basis. $4 valve to stop a hot water system from blowing up. Hot water systems set below the temp needed to kill legonela and other bacteria. Allow stormwater into the sewer system to back up during rain and spill raw sewer into the rivers and bays?? not such crash hot letters after all
And all this after I agreed in another post that to much name calling was going on in here Ohhhh well
22 Sep 2000 at 12:55 am #287947SylvanLMPParticipant
A 1/2″ temp/pressure relief valve my price is $48.64 + 15% mark up + 10% GST = AU$61.52 $4 ?? sounds like you are putting in cheap shit buddy.
Wow You blokes ARE REALLY behind the times huh?
As a certified low pressure boiler inspector and unfired pressure vessel inspector AND reading and understanding the National Board Of Boiler Inspectors code and the AGA and GAMA recommendations and reading the fine print of the ASME and knowing NYC Plumbing code.
I would NEVER install A T&P valve with less than a 3/4 opening Or would I pass the UNDER SIZED valves you blokes push off on the unsuspecting.
Has it occurred to you YOUR prices are so high as
1- Some many insurance claims do to the lack of proper training your bloody plumbers have? That’s why I listen to Michael THE “GASSMAN” HE knows proper piping applications
2- You bloody mates are only are known for exporting beer EVERYTHING else you import.
We being a highly civilized country do have GREAT Codes that base the T&P valves on not only temperature BUT the BTU input AND knowing how I am a conscience inspector and contractor I use the AGA rating which is much more stringent then the ASME as far as sizing is concerned as per input.
Now for a point of information MATE
If we are using the T&P which is actually a combination of Pressure and Temperature valve we must take the following into consideration WHICH you Aussie “PLUMBERS” never consider.
This is why You SHOULD leave this kind of work to the professional GASSFITTER like My buddy Michael the GASSMAN
1- Normally a SAFETY Valve is vapor/Gas (STEAM) safety POP valves on STEAM boilers and AIR compressor tanks PRESSURE cookers
Relief valves are WATER or liquid THINK about it (don’t feel bad I teach apprentices and Journeymen how to pass Master plumbers exams and boiler certification tests)
Now lets THINK about this Article 4 of the ASME “Pressure Relieving Devices”
HLW-400.1 (C) ” No safety relief valve shall be smaller then 3/4″(19 mm) Or larger then 41/2 “(114 mm)
Considering WE Set the Standards of the world in MODERN plumbing and your about 60 years behind us Believe me when I tell you that your SMALL relieve valve can and will fail when it is actually needed.
Remember Mate you guys don’t even have a jet plane made there let alone putting a bloody bloke on the bloody moon.
Next time Loz comes here Or I go there ILL bring a GREAT “WATTS” made relief valve with me
A 1/2″ valve is OK for vacuum protection and even excessive cold water pressure BUT
Most 1/2″ valves have no means of testing ( no test lever)
Not to tell you how to mark up your material mate, BUT I mark up material a full 75% to cover the JUNK American corporations are making over sea’s and bringing back here, like cheap brass valves and lousy cast Iron GARBAGE
Why stock any materials if you cant turn a hefty profit on it?
If folks want it cheaper let them go to a home center and install it with no guarantee on materials JUST labor. This way you dont tie up your money on dead stock waiting for it to sell.
No wonder you cant give your accounts a good shake with those prices.
Do they make each relief valve by hand like a rolls Royce?
Man your LYMES are something else, no wonder England made you a penal colony CHARGING that much for a bloody relief valve.
By the way Congratulation on your fantastic job making the Olympics a huge success, you folks SURE can build a fantastic swimming pool
NOW THAT’S PLUMBING at its best.
Have a great one and send my best .
22 Sep 2000 at 1:01 am #287948GuestParticipant
I tell you what I love Australia, those Mad Max Movies were the BEST! I can’t believe that they have that much of gasoline shortage, What a minute! Could it be that everyone in Australia tests there T&P valve everyday, causing a severe electrical shortage thus incuring a fossil fuel shortage!
Seriously, the T&P valve is one of the most important safety valves on a plumbing system. Testing it should be done by a licensed proffessional. Yes they should be teated according to manufactors specifications. Never ever plug this item when it leaks call a professional.
22 Sep 2000 at 6:31 am #287949bungieParticipant
“I would NEVER install A T&P valve with less than a 3/4 opening Or would I pass the UNDER SIZED valves you blokes push off on the unsuspecting.” …. You modify a hot water system designed for a 1/2 valve to accept a 3/4 ….. we dont modify standards approved equipment over here. The manufacturers over here make a product, it goes through stringent goverment testing. Then if it passes its released onto the Australian market. Its illegal to modify the unit to accept anything other than those parts supplied.
“1- Some many insurance claims do to the lack of proper training your bloody plumbers have? That’s why I listen to Michael THE “GASSMAN” HE knows proper piping applications” …. Sorry sunshine, but its because they are made in Australia to the high standards set by the goverment. Not imported from Mexico or Korea.
“2- You bloody mates are only are known for exporting beer EVERYTHING else you import.” ….. hmmmmm cannot think of any American products used over here, except Ridgid tools.
“Not to tell you how to mark up your material mate, BUT I mark up material a full 75% to cover the JUNK American corporations are making over sea’s and bringing back here, like cheap brass valves and lousy cast Iron GARBAGE” …. This seems to answer your own last two comments above
“1- Normally a SAFETY Valve is vapor/Gas (STEAM) safety POP valves on STEAM boilers and AIR compressor tanks PRESSURE cookers
Relief valves are WATER or liquid THINK about it (don’t feel bad I teach apprentices and Journeymen how to pass Master plumbers exams and boiler certification tests)” ……. We are talking about a hot water system, hence the T/P valve. Don’t feel bad,you teach apprentices and Journeymen and you consider a fourth year to be just a helper ?? as a third year I was running a six pack of units on my own, by fourth year i had fourteen trades men under me on a twin twelve story units. I pity your apprentices if they are still “cheap labour” for you as a fourth year.
“Considering WE Set the Standards of the world in MODERN plumbing and your about 60 years behind us Believe me when I tell you that your SMALL relieve valve can and will fail when it is actually needed.” …. Actually you didnt, most counrties use there own code or follow the English system, since most plumbing was introduced by a conquering nation. Even Englands original codes where brought there by the Romans when they conquered the British
“Remember Mate you guys don’t even have a jet plane made there let alone putting a bloody bloke on the bloody moon.” …. When the Apollo had problems, all the comunications were handled through Australia, next time we can get Libya to do it for you ?? As you have most probably noticed we have had three problems with QANTAS recently, what you where not told was that it was the same piolet each time, trying to run over the same bloody yank each time
“Next time Loz comes here Or I go there ILL bring a GREAT “WATTS” made relief valve with me” …. This week then, since you said you were bring some of your workers to Sydney for the Olympic’s
“Most 1/2″ valves have no means of testing ( no test lever)” …. All T/P valves have a test lever over here. 1/2 valves over there ?? you said they had to be 3/4 there, not 1/2
“No wonder you cant give your accounts a good shake with those prices.” …. You shake down your customers ?? isnt that against the law, I know it is here. If not then at the very least its immoral
Man your LYMES are something else, no wonder England made you a penal colony CHARGING that much for a bloody relief valve.” …. The closest i can find in the dictionary is this “Lyme, NH Zip code(s): 03768 ” what my zip code has to do with Australia being an expenal colony is beyond me. Wasnt it you that said you charge for and give quality ? $4 for a quality valve ?
Im going to have a top weekend, my girls have been with their Grandparents for a week. Now we get them back
22 Sep 2000 at 2:36 pm #287950fourth yearParticipant
I think he meant “limey” but he was thinking about an island instead of a continent. As we say in America, if you ask an Australian for a bison, you get a bowl for water. If you ask an American, you get a buffalo.
Have fun with the girls and have a g’day, mate.
28 Sep 2000 at 9:48 pm #287951loves_strong_showersParticipant
Hey Guys! It’s me, the questioner!!
Since turning on the cold water feed, the shower has been fine. I did release the pressure prior to figuring out that I wasn’t getting water and very little water came out…a quart or so. Do I need to be concerned??? You are scaring me!!
29 Sep 2000 at 11:20 pm #287952Jerry PeckParticipant
Yes, to a certain degree, because the safety relief valve is stuck.
Call a licensed and qualified plumbing contractor to replace the T&P safety relief valve (that’s why they are called safety relief valves); make sure the T&P discharge line does not run uphill (that it gravity drains dry); the discharge line terminates on the exterior; that the discharge end is open to the atmosphere; that there is 6″ between the end of the discharge line and whatever is below it (the ground); that the discharge line is not longer than 30′; and that there are no more than 4 elbows in the discharge line.
But then a qualified plumber would already know that stuff.
30 Sep 2000 at 2:11 pm #287953bungieParticipant
When you opened the valve, water flowed out freely ??. Then when you let the valve handle go, it flicked back into place and the water stoped running out ??
If yes to both of the above things are ok. If no to either of the above then get it looked at
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