Water Heater HEAT

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    • #283886

      Problem, the room that the heater is in is getting too hot. The room is a good size and the gas heater has plenty of space around it. The pipe that vents the heater is about 3 I.D. has two s bends in it and a tee-pee looking thing that connects the pipe to the heater. The tee-pee thing has slots in it that let heat out. I put my hand at these slots and I can feel heat coming out (more than the heat exiting the pipe outside the house). I want to remove this tee-pee thing and have the pipe connect straight to the heater vent tube. Will this be alright?

    • #303959

      NO! NO! NO! That is a safety unit to keep air from going down the flue and causing the burner to create carbon monixide gas. If air is coming out those slots, you already have a problem. If the chimney were working correctly, then air would be drawn into those slots along with the hot gases going out. If hot air is coming out of the slots, then the combustion gases, (such as some carbon monoxide), is entering the room. You need to have a professional examine the system NOW, to get the flue drawing properly. The word NOW should be in letters 6 high, and if it is not done immediately, get a CO detector, you should have one anyway with a gas burning appliance in the house. This is not an idle warning. If your description is correct, then you have the exact situation which causes many deaths from CO poisoning every year.: Problem, the room that the heater is in is getting too hot. The room is a good size and the gas heater has plenty of space around it. The pipe that vents the heater is about 3 I.D. has two s bends in it and a tee-pee looking thing that connects the pipe to the heater. The tee-pee thing has slots in it that let heat out. I put my hand at these slots and I can feel heat coming out (more than the heat exiting the pipe outside the house). I want to remove this tee-pee thing and have the pipe connect straight to the heater vent tube. Will this be alright?

    • #303961

      Hes right, this is big time dangerous. I thought Id post just to confirm what he said. No hot air should be coming out of that slot. Room air should be going in. Sounds like the chimney is plugged up or its not drafting. Have you changed the use of the room any and installed anything that is causing the room to be slightly negative pressure? Like a dryer, fan or central a/c unit. These could be pulling air, and CO, back into the room. BUT DO SOMETHING NOW !

    • #303962

      Alright, I will not remove it. It isnt sooooooooooo pressing because the room is not lived in. However, your advice is well taken and does help. Thank You

    • #303963

      The room does not have to be lived in, It jsut have to have an air passage tothe living quarters, either through doorways, hallways, air conditioner duct work, whatever.If there is anything in the house creating a negative pressure, the products of combution will circulate into the house. And it is Verrrrrrrrrrrrrrry pressing. If hear about a family being removed from a house in serious condition, from an improperly operating appliance, I am going to wonder if it ws you. If nothing else get a carbon monoxide monitor from Home Depot or someplace and install it in the house. Play around with your health but if anyone else lives there, dont do it with their lives.: Alright, : I will not remove it. It isnt sooooooooooo pressing because the room is not lived in. However, your advice is well taken and does help. Thank You

    • #303977

      HJ,Your advise was taken VERY seriously by me. I dont know who Pete is and did not make nor do I agree with the comments he made. I found the problem and corrected it! The vent pipe from the heater was 3 I.D. and I went out side and the exit end of the pipe was 3 I.D.; I removed the pipe to check for restrictions and the pipe was clear and free. However, it was then that I noticed that the hole in the wall was only 1.5 O.D., the wall is cedar block and I quess the installer got tired of chipping a hole and quit at 1.5. I made the hole bigger and now the pressure follows freely and the room is no longer hot. Thank You for all your advise. You have always been helpful and I appreciate it very much. Again, I am not Pete!

    • #303978

      Im glad you solved that problem but there may be one more thing for you to consider. The last post by you states that the 3 (Im assuming single wall smoke pipe) goes through CEDAR BLOCK. The code reads that there MUST be a clearance between smokepipe and combustible material. If this is in fact cedar and not cinder than you should do something about that too.

    • #304002

      Maybe I spelled it wrong. It is concrete and has 1 (now that Ive made the hole larger) clearence around the pipe. Could I use some automotive exhaust fiberglass wrap to put around the pipe?

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