Removing broken threads inside 2″ pipe

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    • #273373
      Avatar photoAnonymous

        A threaded 2″ drain pipe broke off at the rim of the threaded fitting, leaving the remnants of the male pipe inside.

        On small pipes, I think I remember carefully hacksawing the male pipe being careful to stop when the female threads shows and then prying/lifting up and working the piece out.

        For this larger 2″ pipe, is there a simpler way. Should I make two cuts 1/8″ apart and try to work that out. Is there any rental device for this


      • #287475
        Avatar photoSylvanLMP

          Wow EASY Job.

          OK all you do is get a hack saw blade and VERY, VERY slowly cut the
          threads just before the fitting threads you stop cutting.

          Then about a 1/2″ away you start another cut SAME THING.

          Now take an old screw driver and VERY gently tap up on the cut section and this 1/2″ piece should lift up.

          After it lifts up gently try to separate it from the rest of the threads.

          After it is out of the was Again with the old screw driver tap in the other section of the threads near the missing piece.
          The threads should now just come out.

          Take a wire brush clean the threads use Teflon paste or tape and install a new Galvanized nipple

          If it should leak use “BLUE BLOCK” pipe joint compound on the male threads of the nipple. This should set in 5 minutes for a leak
          proof joint.

          easy repair on the larger sized piping. Have a great one

        • #287476
          Avatar photocove3

            sylvan……thanks tons. I made the cuts but it looks like only the remnant threads of the old pipe are left as I can make out the threads of the T fitting showing. The remnant threads seem to be fused/rusted solid in with the T threads. Scraping/wirebrushing & tapping with a pointed tool/hammer don’t seem to be losening up any portion of the remnant thread.

            I’ll try soaking with WD-40 and blow torching it. It seems if I could get an opening started, I could gradually work it out & recover the T threads.

            If not, my strategy is to grind it open so that a 2″ pipe will fit up loose inside the T, and try a 3″ to 2″ hubless Furno rubber fitting with the 3″ end clamping to the outside of the T and the 2″ end clamping to the 2″ pipe.

            I can certainly understand why plumbers charge what they do

            Thanks again


          • #287477
            Avatar photoSylvanLMP

              Ron, all is not lost possibly you can borrow or rent a 2″ pipe tap and slowly restore this thread enough to get a proper water and gas tight joint.

              Rather then using a cheap fernco coupling try using a No Hub coupling torque to 60 inch pounds.

              One more point of information you maybe able to use.

              Using WD 40 for this purpose is useless as it burns right off when heated your better off heating this joint then use a regular wax candle for lubrication WORKS EVERYTIME
              Good luck

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