Reply To: Draining one of two hydronic zones

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Avatar photoSylvanLMP
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    In reply to message posted by BigJim:
    Thanks for the input all.. particularly Sylvan. I got the upstairs zone drained, cut away the old pipe, and soldered in the new. Of course I’m now to the point which was probably obvious to everyone but a lawyer… that there is a trick to getting the water to circulate once again. I tried a few things and all I can report back is that lips become extrememly sensitive after 15 minutes and your mouth goes completely numb after 30 minutes of manual siphoning… of course unsuccessfully. Is siphoning the solution at all, and if so, is there a tool that does this mechanically?

    Thanks again for the help!

    ~Jim


    Getting air out of the system is always a problem BUT considering how you knew to ask the right questions there is help available.

    Lets take it one step at a time.

    1- Please Close your bleeders.

    2- Go to the boiler and look at fast fill feature or by pass you hopefully you have installed.

    3- FYI The automatic feeder is set at cold water temperature and every system is slightly different.

    What the tri indicator gauge is showing is the following

    SEE Sylvan’s EXHIBIT A-C

    A – The altitude of the static head in feet see the red indicator?

    B- The temperature

    C- Pressure

    I will explain each in a private E mail to you as OFF THE WALL P&H FRAUDS out there will get a head ache wondering about the whys and how’s of heatinnnn stuff.

    How to fill a down zone 101

    After the bleeders on the radiators or baseboards are closed open the boiler fill valve

    If this automatic filler has a lever (fast fill feature) you can use it for the time being to fill the depleted zone fast BUT do the following.

    1- leave the zone already filled isolated from the system for now.

    2- If you have an expansion tank with a valve before it isolate it for now.

    3- Close the lower ball or gate valve on the zone we wish to fill (Below hose bib)

    4- Open the hose bib (garden hose connection Hydro Nick talked about before) Attach a hose to it and place it in an area you don’t mind having possible dirty water discharging into

    5- Set the zone valve if applicable to manual open

    6- Use the fast fill feature and watch the hose for air and water to flow

    7- You should in a few minutes be seeing some water and air coming out of the end of the garden hose.

    8- Slightly throttle the hose bib to slow the escaping water down.

    9- Keep watching and within several minutes you should see a steady stream of water NOW close the fast fill and the hose bib

    Your gauge pressure should read between 12-15 PSI (ILL explain why)

    Now open your expansion tank isolation valve if you have closed it.

    Open the valve below the hose connecting valve and wait and listen (water moving) again watching your pressure gauge.

    Now you can double check to make sure air is out by bleeding the “bleeder valves”

    Your looking for a full flow no air what so ever.

    Once your satisfied there is no air in this system go back to the boiler and set the zone valve back to automatic

    Turn on your electric power to the boiler and fire it up and watch the pressure rise to the line already marked.

    This is a great time to also test your relief valve while the system is still cold but be careful.

    As the temperature rises so does the pressure (we call this phenomenon pressure temperature relationship) SEE exhibit “D” in the private E mail

    Watch the temperature and pressure and make sure the boiler cycles properly.

    NOW you can open the isolated zone and your back in business.

    Jim, in some area’s anyone can do heating no real training needed not even the ability to read and under stand which is why so many non knowing folks do get into P&H as no licensed required Amazing huh?

    You sir have a great grasp of the science being the reason why there is 12-15 pound set pressure

    When the system is satisfied check all your joints and piping you just installed for possible leaks BE CAREFUL as these pipes can be well over 200 degrees F.

    Check out the fantastic WEB site that Hydro Nick pointed out and please consider joining my list as we have a great lady Medical Doctor and an MBA on staff and we sure could use your expertise on there also.

    Have a great one Big Jim and thank you for your E mail

    By the way OFF THE WALLFRAUD P&H Again you came through in never ever giving anyone sound advice

    YOU gave this list all your information and they still know NOTHING from you.
    P&H WALLFRAUD does it again

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