Reply To: POLYURITHENE FOAM COATING TO ROOFS

Home Forums Public Forums General Plumbing POLYURITHENE FOAM COATING TO ROOFS Reply To: POLYURITHENE FOAM COATING TO ROOFS

#291901
SylvanLMP
Participant

Hey Robert there is only ONE me got it GUY? I always use my real name unlike the moron stumblebums non licensed wankers that post on some lists

I am Proud that you think of me as qualified as Bungie as he is one of the very best on here without any doubt what so ever.

He is the plumber WE masters ask questions from

OK your in luck as I have seen this very same roof membrane used on the now defunct WEDTECH Building in Bronx, NY.

This was a big building used to help booster economy in the area by taking a bad area and using money to rebuild and use this company to manufacture defense equipment.

The roof had this type of “magic” self sealing description but Unbeknown to the installer sea gulls loved eating this stuff making o large holes and leaving lots of dead birdsllowing me to make me a small fortune .(over $90,000 PROFIT in 3 months)

Now here comes DA PLUMBER to find out why there is so many blocked drains especially after a cave in one section.

and feathers do not go down the dome of most drains so we have a ponding condition.

Water does weight a lot especially when idiots bums so called “plumbers” fail to install proper scupper boxes in the right locations.

Well, you are correct about this membrane holding moisture under it causing rapid and undetected roof decay and weakling of the roofing slab.

Putting hot bitumen tar or asphalt or “pitch” over this foam is a sure way to cause a fire besides mixing incompatible materials.

So I replaced the drains when the new roof was to be installed.

The best job is to remove all this material and prime the deck looking for weakened sections and re roof the entire job with Insulation if you want to save cooling/heating bills.

I would strongly suggest a built up roofing system (BUR) use 4 layers of 15# felt and “Kant strips” in the parapet corners to give a uniform 45 degree flow so as to not set up stress points CRACKING and fish mouths at the junction of the roof and walls like a bulkhead etc.

Around the vent pipe I would no longer use “Pitch pockets” as they need service and they are a problem with leaks.

For the actual parapet I use cotton impregnated membrane and “flashing cement” rather then roof cement or pitch or as felt as all these materials will run during the hotter months.

For the counter flashing NOTHING beats lead coated copper (14oz copper) as this protects the base metal from bird droppings and other acid acids/corrosives like acid rain and or coal dust etc.

For the actual roof drain Id go with either a JR. Smith 1310 or 1010 Cast Iron drain with the cast Iron dome

Or Josam 28600 series with the rough brass dome if your looking for quality.

Now if we are talking insulated roofing then I would strongly suggest a double lead 3′ 3 ‘x 4 PSF sheet lead flashing on both the deck and the insulation using a
Josam 28500 Inside Caulk or a JR. Smith cast Iron flanged extension WHEN you know the exact height of the insulation your using (no less then 2″ with these drains)

The best part of these double lead set ups is in case the roof membrane should become penetrated the lower lead four pound per square foot flashing will allow water to go down the weep holes and not through the actual roof insulation.

But hey any regular “plumber” knows this stuff so why bother to reiterate it huh?



SylvanLMP

Pin It on Pinterest

Share This