Cast iron shower drain replacement

[Anonymous]

I’m replacing a shower in a 1950’s tract home. The bottom half of the split sub drain looks okay, but I may not be able to find a new top half that matches the slope/curve of the old one. If this is the case, and I have to replace the split drain, then I might take the opportunity to center the drain in the new pan geometry. (The shower pan will be a floated mortar bed with a waterproofing membrane.)

If I do this, and go through the slab to move the drain, can I use No Hub connectors in the underground area on the old pipe, and are there No Hub split drains, or will I have to replace the lead/oakum style? Thanks in advance for any help that you can offer.

Jeff Kirby
[email protected]

[SylvanLMPParticipant]

Yes, you can use a No hub coupling IF allowed by local codes.

Now for a suggestion Get an Extra Heavy by No Hub coupling for a neater connection THEN run the new piping and fittings in NH.

If you cannot locate this kind of coupling try getting a Mission coupling GREAT product.

Dont even think Fernco YECH.

JR Smith and Wade and Josam all make either a caulked drain OR no hub.

You can even caulk a drain over no hub pipe if needed BUT I normally use a riser clamp to hold the drain in place soit doesn’t drop when being caulked

[Author]

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