Harold Kestenholz
The special thing you need to do when passing pipe through structure is to leave a clearance so the tubing does not touch. Tubing expands when heated; tubing will make a noise as it slides along the wood or other material. A 3/4-inch tube, actually about 7/8-inch in outside diameter depending upon the schedule or wall thickness, could pass comfortably through a 1-1/4-inch hole.
You can pass the tubing directly through a larger hole in the wall to the other room. To prevent rubbing the side, secure the tubing under the cover nearby the hole with a stand-off clamp to prevent the tubing from moving toward the circumference of the hole in the future. This will also make the baseboard expand from the clamp toward the riser holes in the floor at the other end of the baseboard, so make sure there is clearance toward the outside of the riser tubing to prevent noise, binding, and working of the fitting solder joints as the tubing expands.
While you have the front cover of the baseboard off, pay close attention to the plastic fin carriers that separate the fin tube from their supports.They help the fin tube slide over the carrier without contaCt of fin on carrier. Make sure they are centered on the supports and in contact with the fins and the supports. this will help prevent pinging noises from the fins. This sound does not occur if you uses cast-iron baseboard; but cast-iron baseboard and copper fin-tube does not work wll together on one series loop.
It is best to follow the manufacturer’s directions to run the return tubing when you must return the tubing on the same floor as the baseboard, as the cover is made to permit the return to pass above the fin-tube. You can run the return tubing below the floor when you can pass through to the floor below and not have exposed tubing in occupied areas.
For tubing layouts you can go to http://www.hydronic.net
