SylvanLMP
It doesn’t matter if you put in a 1,000 gallon tank if the NEAR heater piping is wrong.
A lot of stumble bums do not know about the 30″ loop to keep the molecules from moving (stratification) as heat goes to the absence of heat (COLD).
Also a lot of the unknowing use garbage mixing valves Any thing less then a Holby is in My professional opinion GARBAGE.
Also has anyone bothered to figure out peak demand times as far as make up water is concerned?
Is there a large enough return circulation line?
Is there constant re circulation or did some dummy use an aquastat with a stupid probe attached to the outer piping wall which picks up ambient temperature rather then the actual temperature of the water returning ?
For the dish washer is there a temperature booster Or is the hot water tank a commerical type set for 180 degrees and the mixer used to lower the water temperature to a lower safer temperature used for domestic use?
What is the actual fixture unit demand FU= 7.48 GPM like showers or other hot water using fixtures.
What is the stand by losses?
Are ALL the hot water supply and return lines insulated?
Is the gas supply up graded for the increased demand for the larger burner if applicable?
Has anyone thought of an OIL fired hot water commerical tank where you can get much faster heating then from a gas fired unit Or a small boiler with a tankless coil connected to a hot water maker type of set up?
A small dedicated copper fin boiler just for domestic H/W instantaneous type for unlimited supply which would be a heck of a lot cheaper then a HUGE storage tank with lots of stand by losses.
Please try to get back to me with some of these answers.null 
SylvanLMP
Never trust a government that does Not trust its citizens.
