SylvanLMP
quote:
Originally posted by fourth year:
S:
Please advise as to the make and model domestic water heater that is rated at 160# or higher. I might have an application if such a heater exists.
OK Class is in AGAIN.
Contact Bradford White and ask about the “COMMERCIAL POWER BURNER”
Gas model.
NOW pay attention here as your not going to learn if you don’t pay attention OK LAD.
Don’t feel bad there are a lot of uneducated wanna be “plumbers ” in the world it is just this country has the majority of them who never really kept abreast of CODES not just plumbing especially if these stumblebums say heating.
Knowing just the basics is OK for country plumbing and one family trailer park plummin BUT in order to do high rise work we have to consider pressure and here we come into ASME pressure vessel ratings and not your run of the mill imported crap.
AGAIN ILL TELL YOU go out and BUY the ASME section IV code and it wouldn’t hurt you to TRY to learn about boilers by reading the NBBI.
Anyway ask about ordering a COMMERCIAL ASME SECTION IV 160 PSI working pressure vessel and of course National Board registered and stamped
(very important OK GUY)?
Now when ordering this ONE HUNDRED AND SIXTY POUND RATED pressure vessel (hot water heater) explain to them your ACTUAL working pressure will hover around 160 and thus YOU will require the 175 POUND T&P to allow for thermo expansion.
I used these heaters when space was at a premium and had to use high pressure pumps on the water main and rather then having two pumps I decided to use only one pump on the C/W piping and let higher pressure go through this type of PRESSURE vessel and then let the hot water DOWN feed the 288 foot structure.
Now this of course you would not know but ILL try to keep it as simple as possible for you.
Considering the height above the heater is 288 feet and under no flow conditions we have a static pressure of 125 PSI without taking into consideration the expansion of hot water (you can have one of your mechanics explain to you how a “normal” rated 125 or 150 T&P would keep discharging water) to relieve pressure build up and installing an expansion tank is OK BUT they are also prone to failure so to keep the mechanics simple so a non skilled person can understand it we used a higher rated tank with an increased pressure T&P.
Of course you can order specialized tanks as pressure requirements are increased BUT going to a regular supplier that everyone should know about is easier.
On a personal note BEFORE you end up hurting yourself or others why don’t you seriously consider hiring a really skilled person to install these commercial ASME rated tanks and watch the professional so you can learn from them.
These commercial tanks are not for the tract house mentality as your dealing with much higher temperatures and pressures.
You should think about having a factory represenitive actually go to the job site and check for proper flue sizing as you don’t seem to be quite with it when it comes to the technical aspect of the trades it would appear
Now considering your still trying to learn about this trade you should take some courses from the NAPHCC or a local trade school and not rely on OJT only.
Without a good understanding as to the WHY of codes your just fooling yourself if you think your ever going to be a true “Master” of plumbing.
If you have any Techinical questions ILL be more then happy to tell you where to find the information as me giving you these answers wont help you better yourself.
anyone can put heating on a business BUT actually knowing is a whole nother game.
One more point the reason I opted for pressure though the tank is having a pump capable of higher temperatures/pressures cost a heck of a lot more and it wasnt needed.
IM glad you asked as now you finally realize how much there is to learn out here.
Your taking the right step guy, as I am still learing every single day. Sylvan
