gravity-flow water system snafu

Dumb Newbie. I’ve built a gravity-flow water system which supplies 18psi @2gpm and 14psi @10gpm to a tiny, rustic, electricityless, rural homestead. This low dynamic pressure and the modern kitchen faucet engineering (with, apparently, across-the-board quite small internal orifices?)is causing an unacceptable gpm flow out the few high spout faucets I’ve tried experimentally installing. Some local plumbers are telling me to forget washerless, cartridge, cartridge ceramic disc, and ball-type valve faucets, etc altogether. And that my only hope is to find an old, or rarer new, compression washer type faucet, take the aerator out, and hope the wife will give up asking for 2.5 to 3.0gpm splashing into her large, farm kitchen sink and settle for something less. It seems to become a question of how big the controlling and flow-constricting seat diameter actually is?– 3/8″?; 1/4″?; 13/64″?

Also related is the last two feet of supply piping and valves feeding the tail of the faucet I eventually, ballparkingly, try next. Some are saying to perhaps consider installing a ball valve as a simple shut off instead of any globe valve traditionally used to control flow, and to put a fat washing machine hose (potable water approved?) or something similar to join the valve to the tail instead of the small diameter flex risers commonly used.

Me is basically clueless as to these flow-vs-pressure faucet engineering details and characteristics except some manufacturers like Delta provide some informative flow vs pressure charts on their website’s spec details and ALL their kitchen faucets curve in at a very dismal 1.5gpm or less at 14-18psi. Ouch.