- This topic has 4 replies, 3 voices, and was last updated 23 years, 11 months ago by
DONSPLACE.
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Anonymous
model info: “5 40 20RS961” – I think it’s also a STA-KLEEN 805, at least that’s a manual I have. It stopped supplying lots of hot water yesterday, though overnight it regenerated some. I saw info on the BB saying disconnect (top element) Yellow wire and join it to the Blue wire die=rectly opposite. The wire directly opposite is Black. The Blue wire is on the element, along with a white wire. The top (control?) has five wires: left bottom, Yellow. Right (from top down) Red, Red, Blue, Black.
What readings should I look for top and bottom? How can I check for element failure/control failure? The temp.control and both elements were replaced about 6 months ago. -
You question is confusing for a couple of reasons. A factory wired 220/240 volt water heater never has a white wire. And the thermostat should have either four or six wires depending on whether you count the two top ones supplying power. This is the normal wiring system, although there are a couple of older thermostats that use a different pattern. The lower left wire goes to the upper element. The lower right wire goes to the bottom element/thermostat. The middle screw on the right side should have two wires. One goes to the upper element and the other goes to the bottom element. Do not remove any wires or interchange them. You may damage the thermostat or yourself. Use a voltmeter to see if there is power at teh two terminals beneath the red ECO button. If not press the button. Check for 240 v. at the upper element’s terminals if it has power, then use a clamp around ammeter to see if it is drawing any power. If not, change the element. If it is working, then wait until the top of the tank is hot and then repeat the process with the bottom element. For you, this is the quickest and safest way.
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Hmmmm. Thanks for the reply.
The wiring is all factory. I only replaced parts, never any wire. I’ll do as you suggest, checking for current and amps. I don’t have a clamp-on ammeter; is there a way to use the MultiTester ammeter? -
If it has an AMPS function then you can remove a wire from the element, after turning off the power, and touch one lead to the wire and the other to the element to get an ampere reading, after turning the power back on. This is a little more risky since you will be working with live loose wires.
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Thank you. I presume this is not just a continuity test. It’s actually checking flow, yes?
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