boiler expansion tank

WHY in Gods name do you have a “Check Valve ” on any line leading to an expansion tank? GET A Master Plumber over to your home NOW get that damn thing out

sylvan gets a little hot now don’t he? i’m assuming you’re talking about your automatic bleeder, but you’d have to describe it for me to be sure. e-mail me or post a reply. by the way monroe, what does the thing look like between the “check valve” and the expansion tank? if i’m right, it’s an easy fix and you wont have to call your Master Plumber Right Now. sylvan, aren’t apprentaces or residential and journeymen allowed to work at your shop?

Jack only a numb nuts would ever send out an “apprentice” by themselves.

Jack your amazing how you can diagnose a possible condition contrary to EVERY SINGLE code via E mail. The gentleman did say “check Valve” Possibly your Journeymen find nothing wrong with installing a “check valve” in line to an expansion tank but in Civilized countries where the ASME is concerned there should be only an isolation valve between the boiler and this expansion tank and only used to maintain the integrity of this tank and THE shut off Valve should be open and the handle removed to prevent an accidental shut off (ISOLATION)

A check valve FYI would isolate the boiler from the system and thus cause a possible rupture of the boiler ESPECIALLY if the same mentality of installer put in any valve or reducer for the relief valve. BUT hey you cant see it from your home so who cares HUH?

i know what a check valve would do if installed like you magically put it into monroes system, you ever see a check valve (which is installed above the expansion tank where the bleeder goes)leak? its the bleeder bub, read the question SLOWLY and think to yourself, whats this homeowner gonna call that brass leaky thingamagigger that must have a check valve in it to stop the water from always a comin out. still betcha i’m right. how ’bout a buck?

Jack is right – it’s a bleeder. What do I know from a bleeder or a check valve .. all’s I know is that it’s leaking. Sylvan – you gotta calm down bro…..you’re taking this thing much too seriously.

thanks Jack – any advice on that easy fix???

What do you mean only a numbnuts would send an apprentice out by himself. Fourth and fifth year apprentices are supposed to be on their own. And since I started as a second year apprentice (at 19), and was also running a crew of Journeymen plumbers, I have never had “supervision”. Nor have I had any in the 46 years since then.

Jack is right – it’s a bleeder. What do I know from a bleeder or a check valve .. all’s I know is that it’s leaking. Sylvan – you gotta calm down bro…..you’re taking this thing much too seriously.

Monroe this is my point exactly YOU DIDN’T know and here is the problem. There is a big difference between a check valve and a “bleeder” What you didn’t know could literally get someone killed.

Over 10,000 people die each year in the USA from flue related problems. I have no idea what you do for a living Monroe BUT I don’t you think it is worth the peace of mind hiring someone who “knows” what the actual problem is rather than assuming?

I sure as hell would be Leary of a doctor assuming what is causing someone chest pains over the Internet sight unseen.

To each his own I just thought the “service call” would be worth your peace of mind

NOW HJ
hj wrote on 11 April 2000 at 12:58 PM:
What do you mean only a numbnuts would send an apprentice out by himself. Fourth and fifth year apprentices are supposed to be on their own. And since I started as a second year apprentice (at 19), and was also running a crew of Journeymen plumbers, I have never had “supervision”. Nor have I had any in the 46 years since then.

I was in the Navy at 17 years old. I was not only doing welding/shipfitting BUT I was also working/ operating high pressure boilers 1,200-1,500 SUPER HEATED STEAM so much for you being a 19 year old plunger master.

At the ripe old age of 21 I entered the United Association of plumbers and steam fitters FIVE YEAR apprenticeship program. 10,000 hours later (1,600 hours class room studies) I was a Journeyman “plumber”

As a 3rd year apprentice I was paid $2 per HR ABOVE journeymen pay BUT you know something I still would never send ANY apprentice out by themselves as doing so is contrary to not only good OLE common sense BUT bordering on fraud

DO you charge apprentice wages or do you Rip off the poor victims (clients) by sending out an “apprentice” and charging for a full fledged LICENSED journeyman? Do you pay this “apprentice ” journeyman scale PLUS Journeyman benefits? As GREAT as I was I still did not have the real experience a journeyman has. Something has to be said as to why a real apprentice training should be a minimum of 5 years then passing the journeymen level testing AFTER the 5 years of training.

H J Think about all the great training you didnt get by not having someone show you a better way of doing things.

Why not read this article
http://www.masterplumbers.com/plumbing/plumbviews/hotwaterheater.html

Who knows even YOU may learn something. Respectifully SylvanLMP

I too was in the UA 5 year program, except I only needed 4 years to do it. I am the one who showed the journeymen “the better way to do it”. I was the trouble shooter for the lumbing company for 20 years, also did trouble shooting for electrical companies, and ran the plumbing company during my fifth year when the owner had a heart attack. So don’t go high and mighty on me, I have had plenty of experience, I just did not have to have a jouneyman try to teach me. In fact I have had plumbing inspectors work in that shop and I fired some of them for incompetence.

yo! Monroe! sorry i havent been back. that sylvan,limp will be the death of this site i’m positive. i enjoy helping folks like you but he has sucked all the fun out of doing just that. he’s from bronx you know. here’s what you need to do. go to a plumbin’ shop and buy a auto-vent for your boiler. it will look alot like your old one no matter how old it is. go home and shut off the water supply from your water line to the boiler(or the whole house if you want to) and drain off enough water from the system that the pressure reads “0”. stop draining water and then change the vent. put some pipe dope on the little threads first then unscrew the old vent. (easier on a cold boiler,turn down the thermostat for a night) may need channel locks. put in the new one really tight by hand and re-open the water supply to the boiler. watch the pressure build to 10-12 lbs.if the vent leaks at the threads go another 1/2 turn with the plyers. if not, congrads! your done. hope ive helped, jack

SYLVAN LIMP
I’M NOT A NUMB NUTS, THATS OBVIOUS, YOU ON THE OTHER HAND ARE A VERY POMPUS NUMB NUTS WHICH I THINK WOULD BE VERY EMBARASING. YES IT IS AMAZING HOW I CAN DIGNOSE A POSSIBLE CONDITION WITH A SMALL AMOUNT OF INFORMATION. THATS WHAT MAKES ME A PROFESSIONAL SERVICEMAN, NOT A NUMB NUTS. UNLESS LORENZO E-MAILS ME TO SAY YOU’VE DIED OF A “HAAT ATTACK” I’LL ONLY RESPOND TO QUESTIONS WITH A “0” RESPONCE. HEY H.J. LETS MAKE OUR OWN SITE, WE’LL BE LIKE THE MECHANIC GUYS ON THE RADIO& MAKE THE BIG BUCKS!!!! IT WAS FUN TROUBLESHOOTING WITH YOU! JACK

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