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Jamesbondy wrote:Best Options is that the You should be contact to Your Plumber or Plumbing Company. Because last 1 years you have replaced the thermocouple most time So my suggestion is Contact to your plumber.
Agree. The behavior of the water heater suggests it is not suffering from just a bad thermocouple. I would guess that the thermostatic gas regulator (the box-like gadget attached to the bottom of your water tank) isn’t working properly. I’ve seen a few that behave this way that have sticky pistons that respond to the thermocouple plunger. This is not a user or plumber fixable item…if it’s bad it is best swapped out with a new one. But that would cost at least a hundred bucks, and since the OP’s water heater is more than 5 years old, he’d be better off installing a new heater.
Another cause of frequent thermocouple failures is misalignment of the pilot/thermocouple/burner assembly, leading to excessive heat exposure and early damage to the thermocouple tube.
As for the concrete block wall, you can apply thinset to that to smooth it out and affix the ceramic tile and then grout the tile seams. As regards the other shower walls, given the lack of cement board or other US approved tile backing materials, I would recommend doing it the “old way.” The old way would be to frame up these walls with locally available framing materials (lumber or steel studs) to which you apply a membrane (tar paper would be OK) and then metal lath. Then you apply a two or three coat cement surface (essentially stucco). When this dries sufficiently, you apply thinset and attach your ceramic tiles in the usual manner.
This requires a bit of work compared to using cement board backing, but it is just as waterproof as cement board and is far better than using supposedly waterproof sheetrock.
That is the way I built my first shower back in 1973, and I’ve built a few others that way since then.8 Sep 2013 at 2:19 pm in reply to: Toilet tank slow fill – Where does a the water go? #302444
The point made by Selgas needs to be understood here. The line from the float valve to the overflow tube serves to meter water to fill the bowl when the flush valve has closed after a flush. The bowl needs to fill to maintain the trap seal. The float valve simultaneously needs to fill the tank to ready it for the next flush. The metering of water into the tank and into the overflow tube (a function of the float valve mechanism) needs to be coordinated so that both the tank and the bowl refill at about the same time. If the tank fill lags bowl fill, water will be wasted down the drain. It’s a big mistake to divert the bowl refill tube to the tank, just to make the tank fill faster. There are ways to adjust the float valve to make it synchronize bowl and tank fill properly.
These types of systems need to have one-way check valves installed at critical points.
Toilets are pretty simple devices, but you need to understand how they work to troubleshoot problems. Common residential toilets consist of two main parts: 1) a tank, that holds a couple of gallons of water; and 2) a bowl, which holds a smaller amount of water and maintains a trap water seal. The tank is connected to a cold water supply and uses a float valve to maintain a level of water needed to “flush” the bowl. The tank is connected directly to the bowl and water is sent to the bowl by opening the “flush valve.” The flushing action depends upon gravity. In some toilets, usually in commercial applications, the tank is dispensed with and flushing is accomplished by a high-flow high pressure water supply.
If you understand the way toilets work, you can logically diagnose their problems. A falling water level in the tank has to be due to a leaking flush valve or some other leak from the tank (either a crack or a leaky connection to the tank). If there is a crack in the tank, you’d expect to find water leaking onto the floor. One way to check for a leaky flush valve is to put a dye in the tank and see if that dye enters the bowl (when you don’t flush it).
A falling water level in the bowl can be due to a cracked bowl. Again, you’d expect to see water leaking onto the floor or subfloor. Putting dye into the bowl may help identify such leaks.
There are some other ways water can drain from the bowl without a crack in the bowl itself. All of these other ways involve what is called “siphonage.” The two most common causes of this are: 1) faulty toilet venting; and, 2) a partial blockage in the toilet trap caused by something (such as a rag) that wicks water out of the bowl. This can usually be fixed by using a closet auger.
You haven’t given enough information to say whether it would be possible to include a half bath (toilet and lav) in the garage bedroom.
You mention a water line, by which I assume you mean a cold water supply. What about hot water supply? What about drain lines? If the garage is on slab, you could run the pipes by raising the floor of the room addition a foot or two above the slab, but you still need to have enough elevation to run your drains (wherever it is you plan to tie them into).
The general answer is that almost anything is doable in terms of adding a bath addition.PattyD wrote:It’s either a Briggs or a Case ballcock. Both are gettinhttp://www.masterplumbers.com/forums/forum_images/post_button_bold.gifg hard to find but I think someone is making aftermarket replacements. Find out which it is and check Fluidmaster for a possible replacement.
Agree with the Fluidmaster replacement float valves (and you might as well replace the flush ball with a new flapper valve at the same time). It’s an easy DIY fix.
This is a common question (what size DWV pipes do you need to handle the drainage of plumbing fixtures) and fortunately there is an easy answer. The plumbing codes describe “fixture drainage units” based on the discharge flow from various plumbing fixtures (toilets, showers, lavatories,etc. Follow these code guidelines, and you should be OK.
It looks like you have a 1/2″ sweated copper male-threaded adapter onto which the pot-metal tub spigot (the part you hackswaed out) was screwed. If so, don’t try to use a pipe wrench to twist it apart. You’ll need to heat up the male adapter with a torch to melt the solder and caefully pull the adapter off with Channel-Lock pliers. Then snad down and clean the end of the horizontal copper pipe section, resolder on a new male adapter, and then screw on the replacement spigot.
Looks like there is a lot of corrosion at the end of the pipe, and hopefully its just at the end where the old spigot was attached.
If you are careful, you won’t damage the proximal ends of the connection, but don’t count on it. If you can’t fix it using my suggested technique, you’ll have to get behind the tub somehow. The best way to do that would be to get access to the wall behind the tub.
You can cut 4″ CI with the Sawzall, but you will go through several blades doing it. I almost always use my Ridgid snap cutters for this sort of job, cause it’s quick and easy. I reserve the Sawzall for those really close-quarters cases where I can’t get the chain around the pipe with my close-quarters Ridgid cutter.
It’s possible to crack old corroded CI with a snap cutter, but it’s more of an issue with fragile “corked” clay pipe than CI, and it is more of a problem with horizontal runs that tend to remain wet. I can’t say that I’ve never cracked up a CI pipe with the snap cutter, but when I did the pipe was already shot and more of it needed to be replaced than the section I was splicing into.
Unless you’ve had experience and know the “feel” of a snap-cutter on CI, you’d do better with the Sawzall. A word of caution: the Sawzall vibrates a lot and is not guaranteed to not crack a weak pipe. You can minimize the risk by going slowly, letting the saw do the cutting without apply too much pressure, and replacing the blades when they get dull.
I don’t know where your house is located, or even if you’re in the USA. I presume you are connected to a municipal water service. If you’re in a city in the USA, most municipalities install water meters at the curb on the sidewalk, and these meters have a keyed shut-off valve that you can open and close to shut of the water to the house. You can go to the meter box and shut off this valve to work on your plumbing system. Ity’s real easy, but if you have to ask, you probably should seek expert help.
It sounds like you have either a gate valve or a gasketed throttling valve as the shut-off valve to your house. These are older style valves, are prone to leaking and/or getting stuck, and should be replaced with newer full bore “quarter turn” valve (called a “ball valve”).
Hope this helps.
nicktheplumber 2012-05-16 15:46:24
–4″ CI pipe is heavy, and a stack going up through your roof can weigh hundreds of pounds. If you are cutting into a vertical stack, you should support the pipe above and below where you will make the cuts.The pipe should already have been supported at several points when it was installed, but you don’t want it to move when you cut it. The 5 foot cut out section will be hefty but you should be able to manhandle it. If it’s vertical or slanted, make the lower cut first and then the opper. If it’s horizontal, support the middle with a cable or rope before you cut it out.
–If you are slicing in a section of no-hub CI, you can use 4″ Mission/Fernco no-hub connectors. If you are splicing in 4″ plastic pipe you need to use special transition couplers, such as the Fernco Proflex. The Proflex couplers have a smooth solid SS band 9as opposed to the corrugated no-hub coupler band, along with a beefier rubber gasket. This is needed to accomodate the slightly different ODs of plastic and CI pipe.
If you have galvanized pipes that are more than 40 years old, they are probably narrowed with rust and/or scale. The hot water lines tend to scale up first, and the narrowing is usually the worst at change-of direction fittings (like elbows and tees at stub-outs). The tank, if it’s more than 10 years old could also be scaled and/or rusted.
An easy problem to fix is clogged faucet strainers and shower heads, but this would not selectively restrict flow in only the hot water to fixtures.
A water heater should have a shut-off valve on its cold water inlet. so you need to locate your unit’s water heater and shut of the hot water while you work on the hot water valve to the washer. If for some reason your water heater was not installed with its own cold water supply shut-off, you’ll need to turn of the the main supply valve (and at that time install a shut-off to the water heater).
I read and reread your post with great interest, and I can’t make sense out of your problem. How do you know the sound is coming from your drainpipes? The only way water can enter the DWV system is by going into a fixture drain… Do you have leaking faucets or a leaking water closet tank? Sputterring faucets indicate air in your water supply pipes.