cwmorris

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  • in reply to: I used PVC glue on ABS pipe! #300460

    Hi In UK we use both ABS and PVC whilst it is not advisable to mix the systems our ABS glue will work on PVS but the PVC glue should only be used on PVC.Joints on non pressurised systems will normally hold up anyway but the pipe may be softened by the glue and afected by very hot water.Keep an eye on the exposed joints, any joints in concrete will be cooled by surrounding mass and should be OK.Our tins are clearly marked for the purpose to be used.

    in reply to: HELP> I’m at the end of my drain!!!!! #294715

    Hi We had similar problem in UK with imported taps, these had filters in the taps just below the valve mechanism, this was new to me.Removed and cleaned filters and taps worked OKIt must be something simple if all other taps work. Colin

    in reply to: cast iron soil pipe disconnect question #294549

    You have to burn the lead out with a blow torch make sure you have a fire extinguisher handy.If the joint is easy to get at you can sometimes drill out the lead but you normally end up burning it out anyway.Make sure the area is well ventilated and be carefull when you pull the yarn out the joint it bursts into flame as it hits the air. Hope this helps, Calked lead joints who needs them.

    in reply to: frozen water pipes #294541

    Yes and No Steel pipes normally burst if frozen,lead pipes also not now used but were some time ago in UK d’ont now about other countries, Copper pipes will expand to some degree but normally burst, I have found expanded copper pipes after freeze up, expanded but not burst and not leaking.I renewed all the suspect piping anyway.Plastic piping normally returns to its original size after freezing with no problems.If its possible to test the suspect piping to one and a half times working pressure it should be ok. Hope this helps

    in reply to: gravity fed #294540

    Just find out from the W/M manufactures the minimum pressure for the solinoid valves.In U/k our hot supplies are nearly always gravity fed W/Ms work fine but are U/K spec.Dont forget ten meters head equals one Bar.Hope this helps

    in reply to: Banging noise after toilet finished flushing #294313

    Hi Mvirdi Yes sounds more like the float(ballvalve) in the cistern.In UK WCs normally fed from a cistern.Check the ball is sound.change the washer or the whole valve, other trick is to bend the arm if brass to one side VERY CAREFULLY, go up and look at the valve after flushing the WC you need long arms if your on your own, just joking.Sorry your name looked american. Hope this helps. Colin

    in reply to: Banging noise after toilet finished flushing #294311

    Hi The most likley cause of the banging is water hammer this is normally caused by 1. a loose jumper in a stop valve 2. high water pressure 3. loose pipes. I assume you are in USA where your water pressures are normally higher than us in the UK. Try and determine where the banging is coming from by listening on the pipe back to the entry point.I think also you use shock assorbing devices in your pipework to combat this problem you would need a Plumber to fit this. PS. a jumper is the bit in the valve that is driven down to shut down the flow you may call it by some other name. Hope this helps Colin

    in reply to: leaking joints #294295

    hi I’ve had this problem in the past and cant remember why it kept leaking. I do know I renewed the valve and a short length of pipe to the valve and the leak stopped. When you disconnect the pipe look very carefully at the connection there will be some fault which sould be obvious.Sorry cant be more specific but I did same as you PTFE Tape twice before I sussed it. Colin still in the UK but visa to Oz applied for.

    in reply to: Blockage in toilet #294278

    What a pain in the **** these husbands are, a snake will probably just go past it if its jamed in the pipe.Can you rod the drain from a manhole or access down stream.While rodding flush water down the pipe and watch to see if the roll goes past grab it if you can UGH.Normally anything flushed round the trap will go down the pipe unless it gets caught.Only other way is to get a drain jetting company to get it out try and get a firm price first, Good Luck. Colin

    in reply to: Requirements/Regulations to work in australia #301519

    Well Mr Morton as we like NSW and wish to settle there what associations would I need to contact and join in order to obtain a licence to work please?

    in reply to: Requirements/Regulations to work in australia #301517

    As mentioned it is New South Wales we hope to retire to. Is this anywhere near you

    in reply to: candle wax bathtub drain #294202

    I have had similar problems with art students at university filling the drains with plaster of paris. one way to remove the candle wax or plaster is to remove the pipework and replace it. Alternatively you may be able to remove the candle wax from the pipe – if it is close enough to see – by mechanical means and flush it away – NOT WITH HOT WATER as this just pushes the problem out of reach down the drain. i.e Drill it up or cut it up (hand or mechanically powered drainrods) Good luck

    in reply to: 2 inch copper soldering #294170

    hi In UK plumbers mainly use soft soldering up to 3″ sizes,the bigger joints just need heating longer thats all, we add solder until it shows all round the pipe and fitting.We only use brazing for high pressure lines mainly gas oxygen nitrogen etc.I know in Oz brazing is the norm Id better start practicing before I get there.Colin.

    in reply to: How do I attach new plumbing to old lead drain? #294180

    hi You have to make a soldered joint between the lead and normally copper pipe which can then be used to join to any other material eg plastic etc.Any older plumber can do this it is a specilized art not much used these days. In UK this type of joint is not allowed on water pipes and a joint known as a LEADLOK is used but I dont think you can get these in large sizes.If the lead is in good codition you may be able to fit a universal plastic waste fitting on it, this has a nut and a compresion rubber ring.hope this helps. Colin.

    in reply to: Requirements/Regulations to work in australia #301515

    Thanks for trying but it would be a long trek from our new home??????? Isn’t Queensland too hot to work?

Viewing 15 posts - 1 through 15 (of 18 total)

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